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s OF PARK, SA\;
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AND DAWSi
TATE OF N\(
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AN
ILLUSTRATED HISTORY
OF
THE YELLOWSTONE VALLEY
EMBRACING
THE COUNTIES OF PARK, SWEET GRASS, CARBON,
YELLOWSTONE, ROSEBUD, CUSTER
AND DAWSON
STATE OF MONTANA
WESTERN HISTORICAL PUBLISHING COMPANY
SPOKANE, WASHINGTON
irsoTso
ACKMOWLEDGMCK'T
nT is impossible to mention individually each one who has assisted to produce this book, therefore we make use of this general method of extending our thanks to each and ever}- one who have so kindly given information or pointed out where we might obtain it. The hearty and ready responses to our requests lead us to believe the people are deeply interested in having the history correct. To this end we have labored as faithfully as as we could do and trust the results will be found worthy of approval.
One of our presidents has said: " The best heritage the pioneer can leave to future generations is the simple yet powerful story of his life; of hardships endured, of dangers passed, and the final victory over wilderness and desert plain." In the spirit of this excellent quotation our work has been carried forward and we now pass it to a generous and intelligent public.
The Publishers
ENDORSEMENTS
Livingston, Montana. Having read, in manuscript form, the histon,' of Park county, Montana, which is to be a part of the volume entitled, "History of the Yellowstone Valley," to be published by the Western Historical Publishing Company, of Spokane. Washington, we certify that, to the best of our knowledge and belief, the work is sub- stantially accurate, authentic and complete, forming a standard and reliable record of events from the earliest .days of exploration and settlement to the present time. .\s such we endorse it and commend it to the people of Park County.
Signed,
S. L. HoLLIDAY,
Frank Henry, Alfred Myers.
Big Timber, Montana. W.'. the undersigned, a committee of citizens of Sweet Grass county, have read, in manuscript form, that part of the "History of the Yellowstone Valley" relating to Sweet Grass county, to be published by the Western Historical Publishing Company, of Spokane, Washington. The work bears evidence of extensive research and a careful compilation of data relating to the history of our county, and is a clear, comprehen- sive and accurate record of events in this county from the arrival of the first white men to the present time. As such we endorse and commend it as substantially accurate.
Signed,
Thos. K. Lee,
A. G. Yule,
Mrs. C. T. Busha.
Red Lodge, Montana.
We. tlic undersigned citizens of Carbon county, hereby certify that we have examined with care that portion of the "History of the Yellowstone Valley," that relates to Carbon county, which is to be published by the Western Historical Publishing Company of Spokane, Washington, and we cheerfully endorse it as being a true and comprehensive narration of facts as they occurred, to the best of our knowledge.
Signed.
W. A. Talmace, D. G. O'Shea,
J. E. MUSHBACH.
ENDORSEMENTS
Billings, Montana. The undersigned, a committee of Yellowstone county. Montana, citizens, have examined so much of the "History of the Yellowstone Valley" as relates exclusively to Yellowstone county, which work is to be published by the Western Historical Publishing Company, of Spokane. Washington. We find the history to be a substantially accurate and comprehensive record of events of this county from the time of the earliest ex- plorers up to the present day, and as such we endorse it.
Signed,
Fred H. Foster, J. M. V. Cochran, J. D. Matheson.
Forsyth. Montana. We, the undersigned citizens of Rosebud county, Montana, having examined that part of the "History of the Yellowstone Valley," which relates to Rosebud county, and is to be published by the Western Histor- ical Publishing Company, hereby certify that it is a true and comprehensive narration of facts, and as such we endorse it.
Signed,
Jereml-\h F. Crimmins. T. J. Thompson, Thos. Alexanper.
Miles City, Montana. We, the undersigned citizens of Custer county, Montana, having been selected as a committee to ex- amine the manuscript of the history of this county to be published by the Western Historical Publishing Company, hereby endorse it as an authentic and comprehensive record of events from the earliest days of set- tlement of this county to the present time; and we cheerfully commend it as reliable and worthy.
Signed,
W. F. Schmalsle, H. C. Thompson, Mary E. Savage.
Glendive, Montana.
We, the undersigned citizens of Dawson county, Montana, certify that we have examined that portion of the "History of the Yellowstone Valley," which relates to Dawson county, and which is to be published by the Western Historical Publishing Company, of Spokane, Washington, and we hereby endorse it as an accurate and comprehensive record of events as they occurred in this territory.
Signed,
D. R. Mead, H. S. Davis, Henry Dion.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART I
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
CHAPTER I.
Dawn of Discovery.
Spaniards First White Men to Visit Montana— Cabezo de Vaca 1535-36— John of Padilla 1537— Francisco Vasqiiez de Coronado 1541 — Juan Roderiquez Cabrillo in the Waters of the Smiling Pacific 1543 — M. de la Verandrye, French E.xplorer. Penetrates Country to Near Present Site of Helena T743 — Pierre Coquard. Historian of Verandrye E.xpedition— Expeditions of 1752-53— Jonathan Carver's Explorations 1766-68 i
CH.APTER It.
Mississippi to the Co.^st.
Personnel of the Lewis and Clark Party — .Ascent of the Missouri Begun May 14, 1804^ Wintering at the Mandan Village— Sacaj a wea, the Bird Woman— At the Mouth of the Yellowstone— Up the Missouri— The Big Muddy— Milk River— The Musselshell— Windsor Creek— First View of the Rockies— Ju- dith's River — Slaughter River — Indecision as to the Right Course at the Mouth of Marias River — ■ .\rrival at the Great Palls of the Missouri— Through the Gates of the Rocky Mountains— .At the Three Forks — Up the Jefferson— .\cross the Continental Divide— Find the Headwaters of a Tributary of the Columbia — .'Xcross the Bitter Roots — To the Pacific Ocean — Return to Travelers' Rest June 30, 1806 — The Return Journey .Across Montana 4
CHAPTER III.
The Indi.\n W,^RS.
Most Disastrous Indian Battle nn Record, the Custer Massacre— Cause of the War— Force Sent to Sub- due tlic Hnsliles— Sioux Chiefs Sitting Bull. Crazy Horse. Gall. Black Moon and Low Dog— General Sheridan Conducted .Ml Directions— Plans for the Campaign— General Custer with the Seventh Cavalry Proceeds .Against Sitting Bull's Forces — Fighting bv Major Reno — Custer's Entire Command Killed— Not One Left to Tell the Story— Lieutenant Godfrey's .\rticle on the Battle— Fixing the Re- sponsibility-General Miles' Campaign After the Battle of the Little Big Horn— Defeat and Surrender of the Hostiles— The Messiah Craze of 1890— Death of Sitting Bull— The Nez Perce War- Cause of the Breaking Out of Hostilities— Thirteen Settlers Killed— Joseph Defeats Colonel Perry in First Battle— General Howard Engages the Nez Perce in Battle— Joseph's Masterly Retreat— He Defeats General Gibbon in Big Hole Valley— Captured by General Miles Near Bear Paw Mountains— De- portation to Indian Territory— Return to Northwest 22
CHAPTER IV.
The Fur Tk.\ders.
Manuel Liza. First Montana Fur Trader, Leaves St. Louis in Spring of 1807— Establishes Fort Liza at Moutlh of Big Horn River— The First Buildifig Erected in Montana— The .Adventures of John Colter- Organization Missouri Fur Company. 1808-9— Fort at the Three Forks of the Missouri— The Com- pany Goes Out of Business— Rockv Mountain Fur Company Organized 182J— Posts Built at Mouth of Yellowstone and Mouth of Big Horn— Government's Expedition Under C.eneral Henry Atkm.son 1825 a Failure— Changes in Management of the Rockv Mountain Fur Company and Disorganization —John Jacob Astor's American Fur Company Begins Operations in Montana 1828— Establishes Fort Union— Description of Fort— Winning the Blackfeet's Friendship— Estaljlishment Fort Piegan— .At- tacked by Bloods— Fort McKenzie— F. A. Cheardon Massacres Piegan Indians— Fort Cheardon— Fort Lewis— Fort Benton— Fort Campbell— Fort Van Ruren— Fort Cass— Fort .-Mexander- Fort Spary —Other Fur Companies and Trappers— Operations of the Hudson's Bay Company in Montana 34
CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER V. From Beaver Pelt to Ballot Box.
Catholic Missionaries Take Up the Work in Montana— Father P. J. DeSmet Visits the Flathead Country 1840— Comes Again Ne.xt Year, Accompanied by Fathers Nicholas Point and Gregory Mengarmi— Establishment St. Mary's Mission— Fathers Peter DeVoss and Adrian Hoeken Arrive 1843— St. Mary's Mission Abandoned 1850— John Owen Purchases the Property and Establishes Fort Owen— St Ignatius Mission Founded 1854— Settlers of the Early Fifties— Life in the Settlements in Bitter Root Valley and Hell Gate Ronde During Fifties— The Stuarts Arrive in Montana— Early Settlers East of Mountains — First Towns — Fort Benton — LaBarge City — Deer Lodge City — Bannack City — Virginia City — Helena^Butte — Philipsburg — Pioneer -Bozeman — Transportation and Emigration 47
CHAPTER VL
The Political Divisions.
Montana Formed From Original Territory of Louisana and the "Oregon Country" — Louisiana Pur- chased by the United States — Territory of Orleans and District of Louisiana — Later Divisions of Original Louisiana Territory — Creation of Nebraska Territory , Dakota Territory, Idaho Territory — West of the Rockies — Tlie Oregon Controversy — -Creation of Oregon Territory — 'Washington Territory — ^Montana Territory Created May 26. 1864 — Those Instrumental in Creation of Territory — Bitter Root Valley Saved to Montana — Counties Formed by Early Washington Legislatures — Western Montana a Part of Clarke, Skamania. Walla Walla. Shoshone, Spokane and Missoula Counties — Montana Counties Created by Idaho Leoi-I.iturc — Counties Formed bv First Montana Legislature — Missoula — Deer Lodge — Beaver Head — Ma.li-ini — Ji-ffcrson — Edgerton (Lewis and Clark) — Gallatin — Choteau — Big Horn — Indefiniteness of C'luniy I'm nimlaries — Meagher — Dawson — Custer — Silver Bow — Yellow- stone— Fergus — Park — Cascade — Flathead — \'alley — Teton — Ravalli — Granite — Carbon — Sweet Grass — Broadwater — Powell — Rosebud — Sanders 60
CHAPTER VII.
History of Montana's Mines.
Character of Montana's Mineral Deposits — Coal — Precious Stones — Presence of Precious Metals Known at Early Date— ■'Benetsee" the Discoverer of Gold in Montana— Prospectors of 1856— John Silver- thorne, the Mvsterious Miner — The Stuart Partv — "Gold Tcm" — Discovery of the Grasshopper Placers —Placer Mine's Found on Big Hole River. Xnrth Boulder Creek, Gold Creek, Deer Lodge— Rush to the Grasshopper Dicgings and Fnmidingof Bannack — Discoverv of the .-Mder Gulch Placers — Ex- tract from Henry Edgar's Diarv-The Big Stainprdc-The Most Pmlit^c Placer Ever Discovered on Earth— Founding of Virginia Citv— Population -t Ten rii,.usan,l Wiilini Xmety Days— Other Set- tlements in Alder Gulch— More Placer Discuiries ni \-icinity— Disc-viTv nf Last Chance Gulch- Story of the Discovery by R. Stanley — Rush to the New Mines — RattlcMiake District Formed — Found- ing of Helena — Selection of the Name — Other Gulches — Oro Fino. Grizzly. Nelson, Confederate. Ophir. McCIellan, First Chance. New York, Montana Bar— Placer Discoveries in the Butte Neigh- borhood-German Gulch— Elk Creek, Bear. Lincoln and Highland Gulches— Placers on Cedar Creek -Hydraulic Machinerv and Ditches- Amounts Taken from Placer Mines— Famous Nuggets- Quart? Miiiins:- First' Lode Worked— Mines and Mills of Bannack. Helena. Virginia Citv— Trout Creek, Tr^iw Creek. Silver Bow. Blackfoot and McCIellan Districts— Silver Mining— First E.x- periment Near Bannack— First Silver Mill— First Smelter— Lull in Mining Operations— History of the Butte Mines — Other Early Mining Districts— Montana's Production of Gold and Silver 71
CHAPTER VIII.
The Reign of Terror.
Condition of Society in Early Days— Arrival of Vanguard of Desperate Characters, Henry Phminier. Charlie Reeves, "Cyrus Skinner and .Augustus Moore— Organization of Road Agent Band— Personnel of the Band— Methods of Operating— Character of Henry Plummer— First Atrocity to Arouse Pub- lic Indignation to an Extent of Attempting to Mete out Punishment— .A Remarkable Trial— Toughs Control the Town of Bannack— Plan to Kill All Participating in the Trial— Murder of Dillingham —Miscarriage of Justice in Dealing with his Murderers— Graphic Description of Life in Bannack and Virginia City— Murder of Nicholas Tbalt by George Ives — Indignation of People .^roused- Trial and Execution o'f Ives— Effect of the Execution 93
CHAPTER IX.
The Vigilantes.
A Reversal in Conditions— List of Men Executed by Visilantes- Organization of the Vigilance Society- Oath Taken— Pursuit of the Murderers Begins— Confession of Yager (Red)— Execution of (Jeorge Brown and Erastus Yager — Consternation Among the Lawless — Bannack Citizens Co-operate with the
COXTEXTS.
Virginia City Organization — Plummer, Ray and Stinson Attempt to Leave tlie Country — Their Arrest and Execution — Public Opinion Approves Work of Vigilantes — Spectacular Execution of Jo Pizan- thia — Dutch John Wagner Meets the Fate of His Comrades — Capture and Execution of Jack Galla- gher, George Lane (Club Foot George), Boone Helm, Frank Parish and Hayes Lyons — Steve Marshland Hunted Down and Hanged — Bill Bunton the Next to Suffer the Penalty for liis Crimes^ Executions of George Shears, Cvrus Skinner, AKc ('.utcr. lohnnv Cooper. Bob Zachary and William Graves (Whiskey Bill)— Bill Hunter, the Last AKnilHi- mi I'lummer's Gang, is Dealt with by the Vig- ilantes— End of the Reign uf Teirnr — F.nconiiiim- I )in i\w Vigilantes — Langford's and Dimsdale's Opinions— Later Work of the Vigilance OrganizatiMii^ 105
PART II.
PARK COUNTY,
CHAPTER I.
EXPLOR.MION AST) E,\RLV SeTTLE.MENT lSci6 TO 1882.
Captain William Clark's Party First White Men in the County — Evidences nf White Man's Occupancy —Jim Bridger's Story of the Elk Horns— Creating the Crow Reservation— Ca[)tain Raynolds Expedi- tion Discovery of Gold in Montana — Prospectors Visit Park County— The James Stuart
Party— The Discovery of Gold in the Emigrant Gulch— The Opening of liuzcnian Route— Boze- man and Bridger Emigrant Trains— Other Trains— The Rush to Emigrant Gulch— The Curry Mining District Formed— The Shorthill Party— Sharthill District Formed — Laws of the District- Founding Yellowstone City — Description of "Town — Social Life — Living on 'Meat Straight' — Prices of Provisions— (Sold Found on Shields River— Discovery Hunter's Hot Springs— Indian .\ttack— Many Leave Emigrant Gulch— Curry District Deserted— Emigrant Gulch Abandoned— All Flee for Safety- Resumption of Mining — Discovery of Gold in Bear and Creice Gulches — Amount of Gold Taken from Emigrant Gulch— First Farming' in Park County— John Bozeman Killed by Indians— Operations of Territorial Militia in Park Countv — The Mutiny — New Boundaries Crow Reservation — Crow Agency on Mission Creek— Benson's Landing— Early Stock Raisers— the Folsoni Party— Washburn— Doane Ex- pedition Through the County —Dr. Hunter Settles at the Hot Springs— Dr. Hayden's Expedition- Discovery and Earlv Historv Clark's Fork Mims— Murder of Dr. Frost— Dr. Hunter's Place At- tacked—Removal of Crow .\gencv— Tallin Iliij:i ■ Killed — Pursuit of the Murderers— -Alfred Myer's Relief Expedition— Fight With theiii.l:!^ >' mmhs by Nez Perces— Attack on Henderson's
Ranch— Crows Finallv Cede Park Cmii i , ! ^h of Prospectors to Newly Opened Clark's
Fork Mines— Building the Northern
CHAPTER II.
P.^ssiNG Events — 1883 to 1907.
Beginning of a New Era— Earlv Countv Formations— First Attempt to Create ViUard (Park) County- National Park Branch Completed— Bozeman Tunnel Finished— Congress Asked to Create Park County— Refuses to Act— Plans to Secure the Gallatin County Representation in Legislature of 1885— Results in Defeat— Death and a Special Election Give East Siders One Representative— .•\lmost a Sectional Feud Over Countv Division Question- .'Kbortive Attempt of Bozeman tn Give Part of County to Yellowstone— Bridger (Park) County Bill Introduced— Stubborn Fight— Bill Defeated— Reaction from Boom Davs— Return of Prosperous Times— Severe Winter of 1886-87— Early Prepara- tions for Campaign in Legislature of 1887— A Strong Petition— Park County Bill Passes Council and House— News in Livingston— Gov. Leslie Signs the Bill— Boundaries of New County— Provisions of Bill— Organization of the County Government— The First .Assessment- County Seat Contest— -Abortive Attempt to -Annex Red Lodge Countrv to ^■^l!-wslMnc Oninty— Fir^t Attempt to Build Court House- Bonds Defeated— Census of 1890— -Anotlur .Attempt to Cut Off Red I^d.ge Oiuntry— Fight for Pos- session of the Ceded Crow Lands— Park C>.uu{\ Rested by Yellowstone— County Grows in Wealth and Population— Voters -Again Decide .\t;ain-t Building Court House— -Attempt to Create Sweet Grass County Defeated— Panic of iSg.^ Hits Park Countv Hard— Every Bank in County Fails— Business Paralyzed— The Great Railroad Strike— Northern Pacific Completely Tied Up— Stranded Passen- gers -Appeal to President Debs— .And are Refused Relief— Railroad to Hold Park County Responsible for Damage to Propertv— Tempnrarv Mail Facilities— Engine Leaves Livingston for the West— Engin- eers Go on Strike— Engine Returns to Livingston— Writs Issued Out of United States District Court Served on Strikers— Strikers Withdraw Protection to Company's Property— Prevent the Pulling Out of a Train— Failure of the Company to Enlist Deputies— Superintendent Appeals to Park County for
CONTENTS.
Protection — Gets Little Satisfaction — Fort Yellowstone Troops Guard Muir Tunnel — Northwest Placed Under Martial Law — Arrival of Train Guarded by Government Troops — Assault by Captain Lockvvood — Soldiers Patrol the Town — Indignation of Citizens — Protests to War Department and Governor of Montana — End of Strike — Whitewashing Captain Lockwood — Execution Robert Ander- son— Loss of Territory by Formation Sweet Grass County — Also Carbon County — Desperate Strug- gle to Defeat These Bills — Court House Litigation — Voters Finally Approve Construction — Building Completed — Return of Prosperous Times — Murder of Sheriff Young — The Man Hunt — Census of 1900 — Murderer Martin Zidmair Suicides — The Park County of Today 131
CHAPTER in.
Livingston.
Towns and Postoffices of Park County — Location of Livingston — Its Scenery — .'\s a Commercial Cen- ter— The Advance Guard of Railroad Construction — ^Benson's Landing — Founding of Clark City (Liv- ingston) — Rapid Growth of that Village — Platting of Livingston Townsite — Proves Death Knell of Clark City — .^11 Move to New Townsite — Business Enterprises in December, 1882 — The Boom Year of 1883 — Why the Railroad Shops Were Built Here — .Active Building Operations — First Business Houses — A Fire Company — Education and Religion — Organization Congregational Church — Meth- odist— Episcopal — Early Secret Societies — Review of the Year's History — The Reaction of 1884 — First National Bank Fails — A Year of Fires — Vigilantes Drive Out "Tough" Element — Better Fire Protec- tion— .Another Fire — Rebuilding — Recovery From Hard Times — Prosperous Years — Livingston Ranks Seventh .Among Cities of Montana — Population in 1888 — Incorporated — First Municipal Election — City Government Begins — Electric Lights — 1889 a prosperous Year — Early Postofifice Business — First Regu- lar Election — Census of 1890 — Water Works — Substantial Improvements in 1891 — New School Build- ing— Other Improvements in 1892 — Panic of 1893 — Livingston National, Merchants and National Park Banks Go Under — Bankruptcy — Business Paralyzed — The Yellowstone Out of Its Banks — ■ Cloudburst Brings Disaster — Peoples Party Enters Municipal Politics — Opera House Burned — City Hall Built — Livingston Begins Prosperous Era — Census of 1900 — Turn Down Municipal Ownership-^ County High School — Election 1900 — Improvements by Railroad Company — Great Activity in 1901 — • Hundreds of Thousands of Dollars Invested in 1902 — The New Depot — Real Estate Values — More Fires— High School Building— Worst Fire in City's History— E.xcellent Showing in Census of 1904— Carnegie Library— Flood in 1905— Livingston in Late Years— Livingston's Churches— Secret Socie- ties— Unions I4g
CHAPTER IV. Other Towns. Gardiner — Located at Entrance to Yellowstone National Park — The Name — Why a Town was Built at the Mouth of Gardiner River — Its Founding — First Business Houses — Contest for Possession of the Townsite — Railroad Does Not Come to Gardiner — Ed Stone Secures Title to Site — Townsite Platted — Litigation — Uncertainty as to Title — Expecting Railroad to Extend — During the Eighties — Wiped Out by Fire — Rebuilding — .Activity in 1895 — Railroad Extends in 1902 — Followed by a Boom — L^nsuccess- ful .Attempts to Incorporate — Electric — Formerly Horr — Camp of a Coke Company — Postoffice Es- tablished— Early History — Rapid Advancement in 1900 — Fire — Name Changed to Electric — Strikes — .Aldridge — Coal Mining Camp — Founding — Townsite Platted — Cooke — .A Mining Camp — Oldest Town in County — Visit of Jay Cooke, Jr., and Associates — Naming the Camp — Rush to the Camp in 1882 — Rapid Building of the Town — A Typical Mining Camp — Platted — Town Lot "Jumping" — Pro- posed Change in Name — Mining Operations in Middle Eighties — Long and Continued Struggle for Railroad — Defeated by Congress — Depressing Effect — Title to Lots Finally Cleared — Quiet for Many Year.s — Mining Resumed in too; — Present Status of Cooke — Jardine — Gold IMining Camp — Com- paratively Xiw T>i\vii--K:ipiil Muilding — Large Sums of Money Expended — Fridley — First Known as Emmrani Siahnii- Sriil.d m ]SS6 — Shields — Clvdepark — Springdale — Hunter's Hotsprings — A Noted Ilcalih Ri-Mii-|),.CMMiv -f the Springs— Dr. A. J. Hunter Settles There— Building of Sana- torium— Sale 01 Propertv — Inipriivement in 1886 — Platting Mendenhall Townsite — Later History- — Cokedale— Formerly a Thriving Village— Founded in 1886— A Lively Camp— Townsite Platted— Post- office — Census of 1890 — Disastrous Fire — Mine Closed — Town Depopulated — Mines Reopened — -Again a Prosperous Village — Fire Destroys Business Part of Town — Permanent Shutdown of Mine — Death Knell of Cokedale — Cinnabar Station — Founding the Town — -Slow Growth — .Attempt to Boom the Town — A Second Attempt — Extension of the Road to Gardiner a Death Blow to Cinnabar — Chico — The Warm Spring.s — Chicory — Was to Have Been the Site of a City — Looked Fine on Paper — Muir, the Tunnel Station — Historic Ground — History of Muir City — The Tunnel Town — Its High Altitude — Rockcreek — Myersburg — -Lat — Bruffeys — Contact — 'Pinecreek — Chimneyrock — Miner — Brisben — Trail Creek — Daileys — Sphinx — Muhlerin — Coal Spur — Hopper.s — Mission — Elton — Maxwell — Hoflfman — Hicks Crevasse— Cowles—Cleora— Bryan 160
CHAPTER V. Political. Early Political Hi.stor>---Part of Gallatin County— First County Officials Named by Legislature-Appoint- ments Caused by Resignations— Minor Officers Named— Conventions in 1888-First Election Precincts —first Election— Shows Park County Republican— Election of Delegates to Constitutional Conven-
CONTEXTS.
tion — First Election Under State Auspices — Nearly a Clean Sweep for the Republicans — Election 1890 — Democrats Make Showing in 1892 — Republican Landslide Two Years Later — Park County Almost Unanimously for Bryan in 1896 — County ( Irticc^ 1 )i\ idcd — Four Tickets in Field in 1898 — All Get a Slice— Campaign of 1900 Most Exciting in Hi>ti:ry of Park County— Six Tickets to Select From^Result is Close — Mixed Set of Officers Chosen — (Juiet Campaign of h.joj— K. ]iuiili, ms Get Majority of Offices — Republican Landslide in 1904 — Roosevelt's Big Majority — Ciuit. i i. : 1 ittue of School Superintendent— Democrat Wins— Election of 1906— Number of Votes Ca-.t h) I .hli |'i>,;inct— Republicans Secure Most of the Offices 174
CFL^PTER VI.
Descriptive.
Location and Boundaries — Geology of the County — The Glacial Period — The Mountain Ranges — Belt — Bridger — Crazies — Absaroka — Prominent Peaks — Story of Old Baldy — Cinnabar Mountain — Electric Peak— Yellowstone River— Its Tributaries— Shields River and Tributaries— Clark's Fork— Soda Butte Creek — Boulder River and Tributary Creeks — Industries--Mining — ^Minerals Found in the County — Gold and Silver Mining — Report of State Mine Inspector for 1906 — Coal Mining — Copper and Iron Ores — Farming and Stock Raising — Irrigation — Paradise Valley — Shields Valley — Timber 183
PART III. SWEET GRASS COUNTY.
CHAPTER I.
Before County Organ iz.\tiox — 1743 to 1894.
The Name Sweet Grass — M. de la Verandrye First White Man to Put Foot on Sweet Grass County Soil — Captain Clark's Trip Through the Countv — The Fur Traders — ^Opening of the Bnzeman Route — Travel .Across the Future Sweet Grass County— The Treaty of 1868— The Crow .\gency — The Northern Pacific Survey — First Settler in Sweet Grass County — Settlers of Year 1877 — Arrivals in 1878— First Voting Precinct— The Bozeman-Miles City Stage Line— The Stage Stations — Settlers of 1879 — Drowning of Thompson and Gage — Settlers of Early Eighties — The First School — Crows Cede Lands West of the Boulder— Many Settlers in 1882 — Build- ing Northern Pacific Railroad— Railroad Brings New Conditions — Passing of Stage Stations— Kil- ling of John Brady— First Irrigating Ditch— Park County Created— Crows Cede Last Sweet Grass County Lands— Prosperity in 1892— First Attempts to Create Sweet Grass County— Defeated in the Senate — How Livingston Received the News — How Big Timber Took the Defeat — Panic of 1893. 190
CHAPTER II.
After County Organ: z.\tiox — 1895 to 1907.
Divisionists Lay Their Plans— Secure Solid Delegation to the Legislature— The Sweet Grass County Club ^The Big Timber Convention — The Resolutions — County Officers Selected — Petition Circulated — Liv- ingston Marshals Its Forces Against Dismemberment — ^Representative Collins Introduces Bill in House — House Committee Favorably Reports Bill — Amendment by Committee — Bill Passes the House — Reported in Senate — Passes the Senate 7 to 11 — Receipt of the News in Big Timber — Governor Rick- ards Signs th Bill — A Monster Demonstration — The Boundaries — Provisions of the Bill — County Gov- ernment Begun— Settlement With Old Counties— D ebts of $57,943.67 Assumed— First Assessment- Big Timber Made Permanent County Seat— Census of 1900— Park County .Attempts to Get a Slice of Svveet Grass County — Tables are Turned at Next Session of the Legislature — Boundaries .Are I'n- changed — Current Events of Later Years — Fina ncial Standing of the County — Fight Against Formation of Roosevelt County — Opposition Successful 198
CHAPTER III.
Political.
Taxation Without Representation — Naming the First Officer-^— Change Made by Committee of the House of Representatives— Constitutionality of Section of Bill Naming Officers Questioned— County Officers -Appointed to Remedy the Defect— First Conventions— Republicans Split— Democrats and Silver Re-
CONTEXTS.
publicans Fuse — Precincts and Judges for the First Election — Exciting Campaign of 1896 — Bryan Car- ries the County — Standoff on County Ticket — Three Tickets in the Field in 1898 — Republicans Gener- ally Successful — McKinlcy Carries the County in 1900 — Republicans Again Get Majority of Officers —Dominant Party Elects Every Candidate in 1902 — J. W. Bailey Elected Senator at Special Election in 1903 — Roosevelt's Big Majority in 1904 — Republicans Take Everything — The Primary Election of 1906 — Genera! Election Names All Republicans 205
CHAPTER IV.
Descriptive.
Boundaries — Area — Character of Land — The Mountains — A Well Watered Comity — The Streams from the South — Boulder River — Power Going to Waste — Stillwater River — Streams from the North — Tributaries of the Musselshell— Relation of Streams to the County's Prosperity— Irrigation— 'Valley of the Yellowstone- Boulder 'Valley- In the Valley of the Sweet Grass- Big Timber and Other Valleys Farming on the Stillwater— Prices of Farm Lands— Yields— Stock Raising— The Mineral Resources- The Boulder District— Building Stone — Coal— Lime Rock— Iron Ore— Copper— Minerals in the Crazies History of Mining Operations in the Boulder District 211
CHAPTER V.
Big Timber and Other Places.
Towns and Postoffices of Sweet Grass County— Big Timber— Its Location— The Boulders— As a Busi- ness Center — The Name — The Big Timber Road House — Is Succeeded by the Bridge Construction Camp of Dorni.x — A Little Village Comes Into Existence — Platting of Dornix — Business Houses of the Little Town— Railroad Moves Its Station Up the River— Names the Place Big Timber— Dornix Deserted— Everybody Moves to the new Town of Big Timber— First Business Houses— The Fern.— Sunday School and Church Work— A Noted Wool Shipping Point— The Town as Seen by a Living- ston Editor in 1886— John Anderson Plats Townsite— Additions— The First Fire— Census of 1890— Prosperous Times — The First Bank — Building Operations of 1891 — First National Bank Started — Prosperous Times of 1892— The Panic— Business is Paralyzed— First National Bank Fails— The Cause — Reorganizes as the Big Timber National Bank — Series of Disastrous Fires — Work of Incen- diary— Criterion Building Burned — Mastin & Co's Feed Barn — Conflagration of March 29. 1894 — $20,000 Loss the Following Month — ^Becomes a County Seat Town — Flouring Mill Established — An . Electric Light Plant — Fire in 1896 — First Effort to Bring About Incorporation — Attempt Abandoned — Passing of the Hard Times Period — Prosperous Year of 1899 — Census of 1900 — County High School Established — First Woolen Mill in Montana — People Ask for Incorporation — A Hard Fought Campaign— /Incorporation Defeated — The Cause — Militia Company Organized — Another Attempt to Incorporate — Legal Tangle Over Petition — Commissioners Call an Election — Incorporation Carries — Exciting Campaign for the Selection of First Officers — "Progressive Citizens" Win — Officers Chosen — Municipal Government Begun — Old Officers Reelected — Election of i904^Fire Company Organized — Another Disastrous Fire — Elections of 1905 and 1906 — Vote to Issue Bonds for Water Works — Prog- ress During 1906— Big Timber as a Business Center— Schools— Churches— Secret Societies— Melville- Its Location— Its Business Houses— Founding of the Town— The Town in 1888— Later History— Nye — Early Prospectors on the Upper Stillwater— A Minneapolis Company Begins Operations— Found- ing Nye City— A Big Rush— Townsite Platted— A Flourishing Camp— the Postoffice— Mining Oper- ations Suspended— The Camp Deserted — Postoffice Moved— Other Places— Grey Clifif— Reed— Howie — Formerly Sweet Grass — The Change in Name — McLeod — Wormser — Platting Wormser City — Merrill— B'usteed— Reynolds— Manila— Dehart ". . . 218
PART IV.
CARBON COUNTY. CHAPTER I. Current Events.
Prior to 1892— Inception of Red Lodge— Development of the Coal Deposits— Agricultural Possibilities At- tract Early Settlers — Indian Reservation Opened — Settlers Come Rapidly — Some Movement for County Organization— Takes Definite Form— Bill For Carbon County Passes— Enabling Act— First County Officers— Early County Business— Prosperity of County in Various Lines— Forest Reserve- Assessed Valuation — New Coal Fields — Brilliant Future for Carbon County 231
CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER n.
Cities and Towns.
Red Lodge — Early Davs of the Town — First Business Men — Incorporation of Red Lodge — Early Officers —Rapid Growth— First Large Fire— Need of Fire Protection Patent— Move> for This End— Excel- lent Results of Fire Protection— A City's Pndc— Bonds for Water Supply- R..ckv Creek Source of Water Supply— Best in the State— Infantry C.inii)anv Organized— Increased Output in Mnies— Catas- trophe in Mines— Bad Condition of .\ir in Mines— City Officials- Churches in City— Secret Socie- ties of City — Advantages of Red Lodge — Bridger — Business Houses, Churches, and Societies — Joliet, Location and Advantages — Gebo and other Towns of the County 234
CHAPTER III.
Descriptive.
Carbon County, the "Gem of the Mountains" — Resources — Place of Former Range — Now Supporting Many Agriculturists — Alfalfa a King — Fertility of Soil — Fruit Possibilities — Irrigation — Coal the Leader — Bear Creek Company — Amalgamated Copper Company's Coal Holdings — Butte & Helena Parties — Petroleum Fields — Limestone — Cement — Sulphur — ^Dairying — Honey Product — Thorough- bred Horse Raising — Altitude and Climatic Conditions 241
CHAPTER IV.
Education. ^L.
Beginning of the Educational History of County- — ^First Log Building — Organization of Districts — Numbered from One to Eighteen — Reports of County Superintendent — Rapid Increase in School Pop- ulation— High School — Curriculum Contains Three Courses 244
CHAPTER V.
Political.
Enabling .^ct — Officials Take Oath — Precincts Established — First Election — Later Elections — County
Seat Election — Other Elections in Order — Special Election — Carbon County not Strongly Partisan... 247
PART V.
YELLOWSTOXE COUNTY.
CHAPTER I.
Early Exploration — 1743 to 1863.
The Word "Yellowstone" — Its Derivation — Mi-tsi-a-da-zi — Rouche Jaune — Yellov -Stone — Yellowstone — In-dian Inhabitants of the Yellowstone Valley— Bannacks — Crows — Captain William Clark Passes Down the Valley in 1806 — Clark's Description of Pompey's Pillar — Father P. J. DeSmet Passes Through the County in 1840 — The Future Yellowstone County Placed in Crow Reservation — Cap- tain John Mullan Carries Survey Through the County in 1853 — The Stuart Party of 1863 — Enters Future Yellowstone County — -Adventure With the Thieving Crows — Annihilation of the Party Nar- rowly .-K verted — A Terrible Ordeal 257
CHAPTER II.
Later E-xploration and Early Settlement — 1864 to 1882.
Condition of the Yellowstone Valley in the Early Sixties— Efifect of the Gold Discoveries— Opening the Bozeman Route — Crow Reservation of 1868 — Northern Pacific Survey of 1871 — Plans for the Survey of 1872 — Major Baker Commands the Escort — Colonel Hayden Undertakes the Survey — .Attacked by the Siou.x — Baker's Battle — The Commander's Conduct — Indians Repulsed — ^The Losses — The Survey Abandoned — Who Was Scared? — Survey Comjilcted in 187.1 — The Expedition under Colonel Brown — First Steamers on the Yellowstone — Ypno\'-;tiiiir \\'ia;i"i Road and Prospecting Expedition — Its .Adventures — Results in Failure — Horace Countryman the First Settler of Yellowstone County — Other Settlers of 1875 — Government Expedition Under General Forsyth — The Josephine and Rose-
CONTEXTS.
bud on the Upper Yellowstone — The F. D. Pease Expedition — Plans to Settle the Yellowstone Val- ley— Buikling Fort Pease — Relentless War of the Sioux — Garrison Almost Wiped Out — Relief from Fort Ellis— The Wolfers and Hunters— Their Adventures— Eflfect of the Custer Massacre and Sub- sequent War on the Sioux — Settlers of 1876 — The Bozenian-Miles City Stage Line — Settlers of 1877 — The Stage Stations — Cantonment Terry — History of its Establishment by General W. T. Sher- man— The Nez Perce Flight — Whites in Full Possession of the Country — Founding of Towns and Trading Posts — Settlers of 1878 and 1879 — Census of 1S80— Big Emigration of 1882 — Founding of Billings — Northern Pacific Enters Future Yellowstone County — Beginning of a New Epoch 255
CHAPTER III. Since County Organ iz.\tio.\ — 1883 to 1907.
A Country Irrigated with Human Blood — Wonderful Change in One Decade — A Division of Custer County Demanded — Plan of Action Outlined — Campaign for Erection of Yellowstone County — Friends of the Movement in Power — Sele<:ting the Name — Little Opposition — The News in Bil- lings— Mass Meetings — Provisions of the Act — First Meeting of the County Commissioners — Unsuc- cessful Attempt to Make Settlement with Custer County— Court. House Purchased— Jail Erected— First Tax Levy — First Assessment — Trouble with Piegans — Progress of the County Shown by .Assessed Valuations — Railroad Building— A Try for the "Panhandle" of Park County— Poor Show- ing at the 1890 Census — Struggle Between Park and Yellowstone Counties for Possession of the Ceded Crow Lands — Yellowstone County Wins and Extends Its Boundaries — The "Hard Times" Pe- riod—Building the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad— Big Loss of Territory by the Creation of Carbon and Sweet Grass Counties — Another Act Giving Yellowstone County Jurisdiction Over Portion of Crow Lands — The Census of 1900 — Erection of Court House — Opening of Crow Lands in 1906^-Boundaries Extended — Defeat of the Roosevelt County Bill — Progress During Recent Years 273
CHAPTER IV. Political.
Politics Before Birth of County— The First Election Precincts— One Thousand Votes Cast at Election of 1882 — The Vote by Precincts — Yellowstone County Formed — Commissioners Named in the Bill — • Treasurer Apipointed — Preparations for the First County Election — Twelve Precincts Created — Short, Active Campaign — First Party Conventions — Democrats Win Everything — Change in County Officers Before Next Election — Democrats Sent to Constitutional Convention of 1884 — Republicans Elect Every Officer in 1884— The Tax-payers" and "Peoples" Tickets— Politics of the Several Precincts— A "Stand- off" in 1886— Republicans Elect Majority of Officers in 1888— Election of Delegates to Constitutional Convention of 1889 — Big Majority for Constitution in Yellovi-stone County — Republicans Make Nearly a Clean Sweep at First State Election — Election of 1890 — Harrison Carries County over Cleveland in 1892 — Both Parties Represented in Court House — Big Vote in 1894 — Republicans Capture County — Ex- citing Campaign of 1896— Bryan Carries County — Democrats and People's Party Get Majority of Offices — Fusion .\gain Successful in 189S — Complications in 1900— McKinley Carries the County over Brvan— Fusion Forces and Republicans are Both Represented in the Court House— Republicans Win in '1902— Exciting Election to Name Representative— Bever Wins by One Vote— The Enormous Vote of 1904— Roosevelt Carries the County Over Parker by a Record-Breaking Majority— Three Demo- crats Elected— Election of 1906 Gives Republicans Most of County Offices— Democrats Elect Three... 279
CHAPTER V. Billings, the "Magic City,"
Why Termed the "Magic City"— Location— Occupies a Strategic Position— Railroads— Population— Com- pared with Other Cities of Montana— Reason of Its Supremacy— Date of Its Birth— Superseded by Old Town of Cnulson— First Settlers in the Vicinity— Founding of Coulson— Its Early History— Tcwnsite Platted — Lively Times in the Spring of 1882— Why Billings Was Not Built at Coulson— Coulson in the Fall of 1882— Slowly but Surely It Moves to New Town— Now Onlv a Memorv— Billings a Fiat Town— Minnesota & Montana Land & Improvement Company Or- ganized— Search for a fownsite— Whv It was Decided to Build on Clark's Fork Bottoms— The Part P'aved by .■\lkali Creek— Townsite Platted— First Buildings Erected — The Boom — Thirty Days' History— Pace Continues All Summer— Trafficking in Town Lots— The Water Question— Postoffice Established— -Arrival of the Railroad— .\ttempt to Incorporate in 1882— First Street Railway in Montana— Was a Failure— The Irrigating Canal— Its Effect on Billings— Progress ef the Town Dur- ing Fall of 1882— Business Houses in October- The Depot Controversy- The Land Company Scored —Comparative Dull Times in Winter 1882-83— Renewed .Activity in the Spring— .Artesian Well Com,pany— Sinks a Nine Hundred Foot Hole— No Water— Billings Board of Trade Organized— In- corporation Defeated in 1883— A Handsome School Building Erected— Progress During 1883— End of the Boom Days— Big Business Done in 1884— Fire of Tuly 14— Proves a Benefit to the Town— Fire Company Organized — Territorial Legislature Grants Charter— Adopted hv the People- Beginning of Municipal Government — Officers of the City 1885 to 1907— -A $60,000 Blaze— Followed by Another Fire— Insurance Companies Threaten to Withdraw— Hook and Ladder Company Organized— Condi- tions of i88s-^Water Works Svstem Installed— Building Record for 1886— Lighted by Electricit.v—
CONTENTS
Billings Fire Department Organized — Succeeded by the Maverick Hose Company — Conditions Dur- ing Late Eighties — ^Census of 1890 — -Murder and Lynching — Billings Club Organized — Yellowstone Fair Association — Re-incorporation Under General Law — "Hard Times" Period — Quick Recovery — Events of the Late Nineties — Census 1900 Shows Big Increase — The Library — Marvelous Growth Since 1900 — Cause of the Growth — Billings' Manufactories — Its Wholesale Houses — The Things of Which the City is Proud — Building Operations in 1907 — The Churches — History of the Congrega- tional Church — Methodist Episcopal — St. Luke's Episcopal — Catholic — Baptist — Secret and Frater- nal Societies — History of the Masonic Orders — A. O. U. W. — ^Grand Army of the Republic — Odd Fellows — Knights of Pythias — Other Early Day Societies — Trades and Labor Organizations 290
CHAPTER VI.
Other Towns.
Columbus — Its Location — Formerly Stillwater — First Settled Portion of Yellowstone County — Stage Sta- tion and Postoffice — Coming of the Railroad — The Town in 18S5 — Townsite Platted — Name Changed to Columbus — 1899 a Prosperous Year — Census of 1900 — Ambition to be a County Seat Town — In- corporation— Laurel — Its Birth — Townsite and Additions — A Growing Town — Park City — Its Busi- ness Houses — Its Beautiful Site — Founded bj' Ri.pon, Wisconsin, Colony — Its Founding as Told by a Correspondent — First Business Houses — Postoffice Secured — The Town in 1883 — In 1885 — Today — Huntley — Formerly in the Reservation — A Growing Town — The "Huntley Project" — Old Town of Huntley — Built on Historic Ground — The First Citizens — Postoffice and Stage Station — Named by Hunters — Census of 1880 — Business Houses in 1885 — Junction — Location and Business Enterprises — Founding — Formerly Terry's Landing — Later Junction City — A Lively Town in the Early Days — In 1880— Townsite Platted— Destroyed by Fire— One Year Later— In i8is,S— At the Present Time— Mus- selshell— Leading Town of North Yellowstone County — Allendale — .Anita — Ballantine — Bull Mountain- Clermont — Corinth — Custer — Fattig — Lockwood — Mifflin — Peritsa — Pompey's Pillar — Ronald— Round- up— Summit — Toluca — Waco — Wolf Spring — Rapids 307
CHAPTER Yll.
Descriptive.
Boundaries — Area — Topography — Elevation — Soil — Scenic Beauties — Tribute to the County by Fred H. Foster — County Well Watered — The Yellowstone and Tributaries — The Musselshell and Tributa- ries— Creeks of the Lake Basin — Climate — Temperature Statistics — Stockraising Industry — Cattle — Horses — Sheep — Poultry — Swine — Bees — The Farming Industry — Corn — ^Wheat — Barley — Oats — Flax — Potatoes — Dairying — Garden — Fruits — Sugar Beets — Alfalfa — Irrigation — What it has Done — Its Possibilities — History of the First Canal — ^Comparison of the Principal Ditches — Crops Under the Big Ditch — ILarly Day Irrigation Canals — 'Work of the Billings Land & Irrigation Com- pany— What it has Done for Billings and Yellowstone County — Report of the Carey Board — The Huntley Project — Coal Fields_ of Yellowstone Conn ty 312
PART VI.
ROSEBUD COUNTY.
CHAPTER I.
Current Events.
Rosebud County Correctly Named — Scene of Custer Massacre — First Settlers in Rosebud County — North- ern Pacific Railroad— Government Agency at Lame Deer — Agitation for New County of Rosebud — Enabling Act— County Starts— Settlement of Crow Indian Reservation— Yellowstone Valley— Mil- waukee Railroad 319
CHAPTER II. :
Cities and Towns.
Forsyth. County Seat— Name— First Merchant— First Fire— Fire of 1901— School Building— Churches- Outfitting Center— Bonds for Bridges— Railroad Payroll — Business Men's Association— Roscljud— Busby— Crow Agency— Other Postoffices 323
CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER III.
Descriptive.
Size of Rosebud County — Resources Varied — -Population — Productive Valleys — Yellowstone Valley — Froze-to-Death Valley — Rosebud Valley — Tongue Valley — Porcupine Bottom — Soil — Irrigation Ditches — Stockraising — Sheep and Cattle in County — Railroad Land — ^Crow Reservation — Crow Ii> dians — Climate — Railways — Coal — Development 326
CHAPTER IV.
POLI TICAL.
Appointment of Officers for New County by Governor — County Seat — Election of 1902 — Election of 1904 — Election of 1906 — Registry Districts 328
CHAPTER V.
Educational.
County's Short Existence Makes Little Educational History — First School in County — First School in Forsyth — School Report of 1901 — County High School Not Decided — New School Building in For- syth 330
PART VII.
CUSTER COUNT V.
CHAPTER I.
Current Events.
General History in Previous Chapters — Early Partition of Territory Now in Custer County — Early Settle- ments—Military Forts— Custer County Named— First Tax and Officers— BufTalo Hunting— North- ern Pacific Railroad — ^Sheep and Cattle Ranging in the County — Indian Depredations — Mission of Bishop Brondel— County Commissioners Discharged by Legislature— Stock Losses in 1886-7 — Capt. Brown Forms Company to Fight Indians — Tribute to Custer and Men — Crow Indians Cede Land — Assessed Valuation of Custer County — Financial Statement of County — Stock Industry — Irrigation — Fuel — Oimatic Conditions ' 331
CHAPTER II.
Cities and Towns.
Miles City — First Merchant — Change of Location — Live Newspaper — Water in Spring of 1881 — Railroad
Reaches Miles City — Exodus of Undesirable Element — Population in 1881 — Death of Wm. Rigney
Incendiary Fire — First Artesian Well — Another Fire — Numerous Fires — Electric Lighting Bonds
Voted — Carnegie Public Library — Churches — Officers of the Town — Shipments of 1905 Other
T°^vns 343
CHAPTER III.
Descriptive.
Large Territory — Climate — Thin Population — Streams — Description of Country — Best Horses and Cattle
in Custer County — County High School '. 354
CHAPTER IV.
POLIT ICAL.
Political History Romantic— County Board Holds First Session— Record of Elections— Officers Ousted
from Office — Record of other Elections to Date .356
CHAPTER V.
Educat ional.
Custer Population Wide Awake for Education— Largest School District in the United States— First School— School Report for 1879— Other School Reports— Review of the Schools— Other Reports— Ursuhne Convent— Coming of the Nuns— Struggle for the Institution— Progress of the Convent.. .. 363
CONTENTS
PART VIII.
DAWSON COUNTY
CHAPTER I.
Current Events.
Early History — Boundaries of First County — No Organi ii i. m FnK Encampments — First Settlers — Route of Northern Pacific— Re-creation of Dawson ( ■ T n- of the Butifalo in 1883— Small Ranching — -Sheep Industry — Dawson County Loses l>: iSi}i, — Area — Better Facilities for Crossing Yellowstone — Bonds Issued — -Bridge Built — Imyi!i i! i.-M-rnment Project — Assessed Val- uation of Dawson County — Superior Advantages 369
CHAPTER II.
Cities and Towns.
Glendive, "Gateway of Montana" — First Thought of Building Glendive — Railroad Completed in Spring of iSSi— Early Business Men— Killing Buffalo Principal Industry— Stock Business— First Fire— Dispute Concerning Title to Townsite — Glendive Fire Department — Fire in 1903 — Water System — -Sewerage System — Religious Denominations — Fraternal Soci eties — Wibaux — Tokna — Other Postoffices 372
CHAPTER III. Political. Early Political History — First County Commissioners — S
CHAPTER IV.
Descriptive.
Prior to the .-Kdvent of the Northern Pacific — Early Settlers Change the Scenes — Watered Well — Rich Agricultural Lands — ^Climate Excellent — Paramount Industry is Stock Raising — Bad Lands — Fuel — Rich Resources — Excellent Prospects 382
PART IX.
CHAPTER I.
Press of the Yellowstone Valley.
Park County — Livingstone Gazette, First Newspaper — Is Succeeded by Livingston Tribune — Birth of the Daily Enterprise — Its Suspension — The Weekly Enterprise — Its History — National Park Pioneer — Livingston Sentinel — Establishment of the Livingston Post — Its Subsequent History — Livingston Herald Has an Existence of Seven Years — Is Sold at Mortgage Sale — Montana Agriculturist — Silver Republican — Park County Republican Plays a Part in the Press History of Park County — Wonderlan-d — Revived as the Wonderland News 655
Sweet Grass County — Only One Paper in the County — Four Started — -Big Timber Pioneer — First Printed in Livingston — Changes in Proprietorship — In Politics — In Size — Sweet Grass and Boulder Blade — Comes to an Untimely End — Big Timber E.xpress — History of That Paper — Its Suspension — Yellow- stone Leader — Story of Its Birth — Later History — Consolidated with the Pioneer 659
Carbcn County — Red Lodge Picket, the Pioneer Paper — The Vociferator — The New Idea — Carbon County Sentinel — Carbon County Democrat — Carbon County Chronicle — Carbon County Republican — Joliet Taxpayer — Later Named Joliet Journal — Bridger Tribune 661
Yellowstone County — Newspaper History of Over Twenty-five Years — Newspapers of Today — Recollec- tions of the Early Days — A. K. Yerkes Founds the Coulson Post — Moves to Billings^. D. Matheson Becomes Proprietor — Post Joins the Merger— Bromley & Devine Launch the Billings Herald — Made
CONTENTS
a Daily — Changes in Ownership — Suspends Publication to Enter the Gazette Combine — Short Life of the Daily Rustler — Gazette Publishing Company Formed — Absorbs All the Billings Papers — All Three Plants Destroyed by Fire — The Daily Gazette and Montana Stock Gazette — History of These Publications — J. D. Matheson Starts the Billings Times — History of that Journal — Montana Wool Journal — The Lurid Montana Vociferator — Its Happy End — Stillwater Bulletin — Yellowstone Valley Recorder — ^Brief Existence of the Columbus Express — Billings Republican — Billings News — Tri- County News — Laurel Sentinel — Billings Daily Journal-^Montana Farm — Editorial Writers of the Early Days 662
Rosebud County — Dearth of Newspapers — Forsyth Times the First — Rosebud County News — Its Sus- pension 667
Custer County — Yellowstone Journal. First Newspaper in the Yellowstone Valley — Major McElrath — General Nelson A. Miles Interested in its Publication — The Daily Journal — History of the Paper — The Chronicle — Weekly Press — Daily Press — 'Daily Rustler — Daily Record — Stock Growers Journal — Daily Gazette— Miles City Independent 667
Dawson County — Glendive Times — Daily Times — Yellowstone Press — -Glendive Independent — Dawson
County Review — Yellowstone Monitor 66g
I
INDEX
PAGE
Adamson. William C 4/8
Albin, Bert R 437
Algaard, Albert 439
Allen. George J 620
Allen, William A 419
Allen, William H 412
Ailing, Ira M 434
Ames, John T 555
Amos, Henry S 447
Anderson, Arthur C 533
Anderson, August W. T 583
Andrew, Robert 596
Arne^nn. Anthony H 391
Anhnn. Martin 531
Arihun, nW H 599
A^h, Gtorse W 6
Austin. Thomas R 426
Awe, Fred 601
Babcock, Albert L 652
Badgett. L. S 619
Ball. William 439
Ballinger, M. S 549
Bamber, John 486
Barley. Matthias 543
Bauman, Herman 602
Bedford, Daniel C 623
Bickerdvke^ Hiram B 592
Bigelow, Deforest W 5"
Billman, Andv 557
Birkeland. Ole 408
Bishop, Jerome A 532
Bitle, Arthur 421
Black, Madison M 651
Blair, Ervin G 506
Blair, Harrv B
Blakesley, Reinza W 493
Blewett, John 553
Boggio. Charles 63
Bohne. Henrv A 628
Bonefield, Peter S86
Bostic, Elmer T 473
Bottler, Philip 547
Bowker. Joseph J 5I7
Brady. Samuel O'N. C 498
Bray. Monfort
Breck William C
Brewer, Isaac W 584
Brewster. George W 400
Brooks, Warren E 582
Brown. Joseph 521
Brownlee, Robert 469
643
PAGE
Brown. Joseph T 387
Bruffev. George A 404
Burg, Charles A 616
Burke, J. O. L 464
Burla. Gwen F 460
Burnett, James M 639
Cahoo, George H 647
Calhoun. James H 484
Camp, Edgar B 451
Campbell, George C 525
Carlson, Charles 472
Carlton, Paul H 430
Carwile, Nathaniel G 429
Cedergren Brothers 444
Cedergren. Money 0 444
Cedergren. Richard E 444
Chance, Nathan 415
Chapman. Henry 503
Cheney. William H 454
Clark, John G 554
Clark, Samuel E 626
Cleveland. George W 600
Connell. Merritt E 594
Cook, J. W 584
Coppedge. John D 627
Corbin, Harvy A 515
Cowan. Walter 0 453
Crawford. A. M 417
Crinuiiin*. Tereniiah F 5';6
Cross Charles R 524
Cutler, Robert E 519
Danim. Jnlm 623
Darroch, John M 565
Dickson. William E 514
Dow, George R 606
Draper, Frank W 496
Droste, John 631
Duffev. William 463
Duffv. Owen 520
Duffield, Harry 394
Dumont, Charles 44'
Dunning, Grant 61 1
Edwards. John E 399
Eggen, Ole 540
Eichhorn, Joseph 577
Ellis, Harry 585
Enochs, W. A 565
Fevler Samuel 523
Fitzgerald, Selleck M 505
PAGE
Flanagan, Michael 610
Flvnn, John 456
Fo'ster, Fred H 465
Forster. John 453
Fowler. John T 493
Eraser, John 559
Frost, John H 459
Garrison, Albert T 445
Gass, Alexander S 647
Geisdorff, Fred 620
Goodwin, William E 447
Goulding. Frederick J 46s
Grant. Charles F 527
Greenway, Henry J 621
Grosfield, Abraham M 398
Gruel, Louis 5i8
Gruel. Max 507
Guiler, John L 483
Hall. John H 466
Halvorsen, Hans J 390
Hanning, Emil 561
Harrington. Abraham 528
Harris Charles L 409
Hartley, Jacob M 563
Haskin, Orlando E 495
Hatch. Charles E 645
Hawkins, James B 448
Hayden. Nathaniel 50i
Ha'vnes. William N 396
Heigeland. Sivert 617
Henderson, C. W 597
Hendrickson, Henry C 572
Henrv. Frank 650
Herbert. Kirk E 443
Herbert, George 539
Herein! Osten E S02
Herman. Frank N 5I5
Hiber. Charles E 542
Hicks. Theron W 492
Hirsch. George 483
Hogan, Ben 635
Hogan. Thomas S 520
Hoines, Gunder 1 618
Hollopeter, Beniamin S 479
Hooper, John C 474
Hooper. Joseph G 411
Hope. John C ■• 489
Hoppe, Walter M 587
Hopple Samuel J 558
Horton, W. H 49'
INDEX
PAGE
Howard. A. McC 446
Howard, Henry C 480
Hudson, Claud E 402
Hudson. Robert B 486
Humplircvs. Nathaniel J 607
Hundley.' Alexander 566
Hunter, Guv D 49.3
Huntington. William C 623
Hurley, Michael 529
Hutton. J. W 560
Huxtable, John P 497
Hym. James 59i
Indreland, Samuel Itzin, William ...
Jellison, Francis J 399
Johnson, Albert 548
Johnson, Anton H 435
Johnston. William B 649
Jones, William C 542
Kaiser, Edward 525
Kellett, Frank 45°
Kelsey S. Walter 49°
Kemmis. Thompson .\ 397
Kennedy, Edward B 450
Kennedy, James 574
Kennedy, James F 403
Kent, Thomas 442
Kimes, John 638
King, James 618
Kirscher, Peter 541
Knapp. Louis R 472
Knapp. William J 467
Knowles. William E 543
Koch, Charles 640
Krise. John W 405
Kujath, Herman 615
LaMott, Allen B 471
Lande, Jacob T 581
Laney, John W 462
Lantis, Charles D 576
LaRoche, Fernando 499
Larsen, John 531
Lathom, George D 575
Lavelle. William 484
Lay. Joseph 436
Lehfeldt, Hermann 545
Lehfeldt. Ludwig C 544
Leimbach, Ferdinand 567
Lennon, Martin 430
Leslie. Edward 431
Lindsay. William 458
Logan, Arthur C 444
Logan. John T 618
Lovely. John A 566
Lovering. Owen 422
Lowe, Milton C 488
Lowe, William 461
Lukinbeal. William E 588
Lutzenhiser, J. H 5,30
Mace, George ^2i
MaGee, Elias F 626
Mahr, Charles 598
Marsh, Jesse 416
Maryott, John L 643
Mason, Joseph E 513
Mattson, Olaf W 568
McCarty, Francis M 418
PAGE
McCune, Mary S 581
McDonald, Hector 503
McDonald. Malcolm M 573
McDonald. Richard L 568
McGehee, Edward 613
McGirl, Thomas 432
Mcintosh, A. W 509
Mcintosh, Daniel 596
McKinney, Frank 604
Meadors, Annette 440
Meadors, John P 431
Melum, B. M 455
Mendenhall, Conway B 583
Mendenhall, Cyrus B 413
Mentch. Alexander 585
Merritt, Orson 437
Meyer, William F 624
Miles, Arthur W 614
Miller, John A 595
Miller, Soren R 608
Milligan, Grant 634
Morgan, John A 564
Morris, Robert 0 600
Morrison, A. J 571
Morse, Sidney F ; 409
Moss. Preston B 490
Myers. Benjamin F 575
Myrebo, Betuel 605
Neilson, Peter 582
Nelson. Nels .A 550
Nelson. Olof 523
Nelson, Peter W 475
Newman, Edwin M 630
Newman, Mark T 625
Newnes, Sam 526
Nichol, John 591
Nielsen, Ole C 519
Nilson, Olaus 552
Nix, William J 539
Northway, Joseph Z 410
Nutting, William B 632
O'Brien, John 407
O'Connell, Samuel 5S9
O'Donnell. Ed 448
O'Leary, Albert P 495
Olson, Gus 612
Osborne, Frank B 498
O'Shea, Daniel G 634
Ostrum, Gunder 648
Padden. Willard B 605
Palmer, William W 608
Peden, David 406
Phelps, George H 598
Pierce. George W 546
Piper. Lewis C . . . 587
Potter, Charles J 401
Powers, George "W 433
Powers, Maurice ;;79
Prewett, Silas C 475
Pruett. Levi C>o3
Rademaker. M. "B 1 jo6
Ramsey, Charles A 602
Randall. James N 504
Rea. James E 537
Reed, George W 550
Renlund. Sanfrid 637
Reno, Ludlow B 427
Rich. .Mbert A 415
Rife, S. L 61Q
P.VGE
Robison, William 826
Rowland, Robert B 535
Rowland. William 420
Russell. David H 457
Russell, Edwin C 639
Sample, Henry A 47°
Sanford, Jacob T 392
Schaudel, Julius 551
Schmalsle, William F 434
Scott, James N 529
Scott, William J 424
Selleck, Charles W 516
Selway, J L 417
Seupke, Wfilliam 562
Shaf er, Louis H 537
Sickler, Arthur R 393
Simpson, Charles M 569
Simington. George R 022
Simpkins. Joseph T 558
Sirrine, Clarence 425
Sirrine. Warren 0 423
Solberg. Jacob 613
Sorenson. Marce 560
Spang, .■\lban D 426
Sproule, George 595
Stack, Thomas F 506
Staffek, John C 403
Stafford. John M 548
Stanbach, Henry J 494
Standen, Fred 527
Steele. James 609
Steele. Robert 609
Stewart. John S 637
.Stole. Jonas P 402
Stone, William B 389
Strickland, Benjamin 570
Strider. Frank 636
Strong, William 579
Sumcr. Rudolph 509
Succetti. John 530
Swan, Lawrence T 563
Teesdale, R. B 552
Terrett, William W 488
Thompson, Henry C 540
Thompson, Iver 536
Toliver, Solomon C 556
Toston, George 517
Town, Annie E 500
Tripp. Daniel W 478
Troger. .Albert 534
Tunnell. Sam. P 508
Tuttle, Samuel J 570
Tyler Riley 644
Van Houten, John W 512
Volin, Charles E 438
Wakefield. George W 393
Walters. I. W 562
Wastpeter. Tnhn 553
Weast, |acr,l, P 534
Weaver. Cliauncev R 636
Weaver. J. R 650
Welcome, George W 601
Wentworth. Maurice S 646
Wesch. Philip 404
West, James 627
Westbrook, Walter R 640
Whitbeck. James K 632
White, W. D 628
Whitney, Frank S 617
PAGE
Wilder. Elmer '466
Wolff, William W 641
Wood. G. W 629
Woosley, James 522
PAGE
Wright. Eugene P 545
Yegen. Christian 476
Yegen, Peter 476
PAGE
Young, George T 590
Young, William W 421
Youngstrom. Swan 635
Youst. Claudius D 468
INDEX
PORTRAITS
PAGE
Arch, Entrance to Yellowstone
National Park i6l
Bab'^ock, Albert L 632
Bickerdyke, Hiram B 592
Bison, a herd of 319
Brewster, George W 400
Brown, Joseph T 387
Burke, J. O. L 464
Calhoun, James H 480
Crawford, A. M 416
Custer Battlefield 319
DeSmet, Father -48-
Dickson, William E 512
Draper, Frank W 496
Eichhom, Joseph 576
Emigrant Peak 119
Flanagan, Michael 608
Guiler, John L 480
PAGE
Harrington, Abraham 528
Hawkins. James B 448
Herman, Frank N 512
Hirsch, George 480
Howard, Henry C 480
Hutton, J. W 560
Kellett. Frank 448
Kennedy, Edward B 448
Koch, Charles 640
Lantis, Charles D 576
Lantis, Mrs. Charles D 576
Lantis, Miss L. E 576
Lehfeldt, Hermann 544
Lehfeldt. Ltidwig C 544
Marsh, Jesse 416
Maryott, John L 640
Mason, Joseph E 512
McCarty, Francis M 416
PAG
McGirl. Thomas 432
Miller, Soren R 608
Meyer, William F 624
Montana Haying Scene 191
O'Dor.nell, Ed 448
Palmer. William W 608
Palmer, Mrs. William W 608
Powers. Maurice 576
Powers, Mrs. Maurice S76
Selway, J. L 416
Sheep, Band of 233
Steele, James 608
Steele. Robert 608
Van Houtcii. John W 512
Westbronk. Walter R 640
Wolflf, William W 640
Wright, Eugene P 544
Wright, Mrs. Eugene P 544
PART I
HISTORY OF MONTANA
CHAPTER
DAWN OF DISCOVERY.
To the Spaniards is due the credit of being the first white men to explore the territory now within the confines of the State of Montana, and to Cabezo de Vaca should the distinction of being the very first be given. He, in 1535, with two soldiers and a treacherous Moor, Stephen the Moor, left Mexico with the purpose of exploring the north, of which they had so often heard the Indians speak. They returned in 1 536, and, while it is not known what terri- tory they traversed, fi-om their description and physical geography, their travels must have led them to what is now known as the South Saskatchewan and Sun rivers, beyond the ]Mis- souri and Yellowstone.
The first missionary father who visited this northern territory was a Franciscan Friar, John of Padilla. In the year 1537 he was sent by Coronado, then governor of New Gallia, to explore the country to the north. The treach- erous Moor, Stephen, was again chosen as guide. The Moor with a few followers pre- ceded the main company and because of many attempted depredations was finally killed by the native Indians. The party who had accompan- ied the Moor in the lead now turned back and met the priest and his followers, but the priest was not to be influenced by this and pushed on
to the northward, but on sight of the Seven Cities he stopped.
The Cavalier of Salamanca, Francisco Vas- quez de Coronado, arrived in Mexico about 1539, and in 1540 set out in charge of an army corps, composed of 800 natives and 300 Span- ish nobles, and according to the statement of Coronado they took possession of the entire territory of the Missouri, south and north of the 40th parallel of latitude, beyond the domain of the Emperor Tartarax in May, 1541.
On May tenth, 1543, is recorded the first discovery of Oregon, of which western Mon- tana was once a part. Juan Roderiquez Ca- brillo, in command of a Spanish squadron, came up the coast of California and anchored in a bay as far north as 40 degrees of latitude.
Nothing more was accomplished in the way of explorations in the northwest for two hun- dred years after the Spaniards made their at- tempt to find out the nature of the territory under their possession. The next explorations were made by the French in 1737-38 when Jean Frederick Philippearin, known as Count de IMaurepas, was secretary of state in France. He sent explorations to the equator, north and south pole, and to then imperfectly known coasts and countries. In 1738 M. de la Ver-
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
andrye was despatched to America and was to make an overland journey to the Pacific ocean. To this able explorer we have to look for the first authentic history of the state of Montana. The traveler, having reached Can- ada, started with his party from Montreal, passed through Lake Superior, and, going as far to the westward as possible, passed along the foot of Lake Winnipeg, ascended the As- siniboine river and directed his course toward the Rocky mountains. For many days they traveled over large tracts of land free from timber but covered with very tall grass. In several places where it was known that no European had ever traveled, were found great pillars of stone leaning upon each other. The pillars consisted of one single stone each, and sometimes such stones were found laid one upon eacli other, resembling a wall. At one place on the prairie several hundred miles west of Montreal, the party discovered a large stone, like a pillar^ and in it a smaller stone about a foot long and four or five inches broad, covered on both sides with characters unknown. This curiosity was separated from the pillar and transmitted to the secretary of state at Paris, where missionaries conversant with Eastern languages affirmed that the inscription was in Tartaric characters. Without reaching the main range \'erandrye was compelled to aban- don the expedition, his party having got mixed up in a war which the Indians of these parts were waging against each other. The editor of the New York Documents, concludes from his analysis of many letters and official docu- ments bearing on the expedition, that the coun- try then explored was west and north of Min- nesota. Three hundred miles west of Lake Winnipeg on the Assiniboine, he states, they erected Fort La Reine, three others being erected further west, the most distant of which stood on the l)ank of the Paskoyac, a fork of the Shekatchiak. Against this opinion are many references to the waters of the upper Missouri, which leave no doubt that the Ver-
anclrye party reached many of the valleys of Montana. Kalm, the Swedish scholar, who met the A'erandrye party in Canada in 1749, agrees with Garneau that the party did not cross the main range; but both are willing to concede to its members the honor of entering the valleys between the Great Belt and the main range. Granville Stuart and his fellow members of the Montana Historical Society agree in the belief that the explorers left Fort La Reine, on the Assiniboine river, went up the Mouse river in a southerly direction, and then crossed over to the Missouri to a point a little below where is now Fort Berthold. Then they ascended the Missouri as far as the Gates of the Mountains where the river breaks through the Belt range (near Helena), and ascended those mountains on the first of Janu- ary, 1743. Thence they passed up Deep or Smith's river, and over to the head of the Mus- selshell ; thence south to the Yellowstone cross- ing, through which they went up Pryor's Fork and through Pryor's gap, to Stinking river, which they crossed, and continuing south came among the Snake Indians on Wind ri\-er, who told them that on the south of Wind river mountains was Karoskiu, now Green river. The Snakes also told them not to go further south or they would be killed by the Sans Arcs, a branch of the Sioux, who were watching at Wind river pass for any parties that might be passing that way that they might kill and rob them. On the 19th of Alay, 1744, they re- turned to the upper Missouri, and in the Petite Cerise (choke cherry) country, they planted on an eminence a leaden plate bearing the arms (f France, and erected a monument of stones, which they called Beauharnois. After erecting the monument, they doubtless descended the Missouri, to where they first struck it on their outward journey. Then they returned by way of the Mouse river and the Assiniboine to the Lake of the Woods, where they arrived July 2, 1744, after an absence of about a year.
It has been asserted, and on good authority.
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
that the visit of Verandrye to the country wliich is now known as Montana was brought about because of the shining appearance of the Rocky Mountains. The Imhans of this coun- try told the natives fartlier east, and these in turn to their eastern neiglilxirs, the rumors of the wonderful country finaJIy reacliing the French in Canada. According to tlie rumors, the shining appearance of the country was sup- posed to indicate the presence of gold, dia- monds and other precious stones. It was on the first of January, 1743, when Verandrye reached the shining mountains. The point at which the ascent was made was near the pres- ent city of Helena. Here the exploring party discovered the Prickly Pear river and learned of the Bitter Root from the Indians. The Bear Tooth mountain near Helena was de- scribed, and in other ways the party left evi- dence of the visit.
The Jesuit, Pere Coquard or Cociuillard, was one of the party of 1738, and to him is given the honor of being the first Christian minister to visit the region now called Mon- tana. To him must be given the credit for nearly all the records of the expedition. While he was neither laudations nor severe in his crit- icisms, he gave a just and plain statement of facts. He was Verandrye's oldest friend and an associate in the expedition and had much Ijetter opportunities of observation than the chief. For this reason if no other, his state- ments must be accepted as correct and the fol- lowing dates and events taken in history — Fort La Reine on the Assinilxiine erected Oc- tober 3, 1738: the Alandan country explored by \'erandrye, Jr., and the Chevalier Veran- drye. sons of the Sieur de la Verandrye; Belt mountains reached January i, 1743; Monu- ment erected bearing French coat-of-arms in upper Missouri country on May 12, 1744; re- turn to the Lake of the Woods July 2. 1744: Sieur de la \'erandrye died in Canada Decem- ber 6, 1749; Chevalier Verandrye lost in the
wreck of the Auguste on the ocean in Novem- ber, 1 761 ; the Sieur Jules Verandrye and Pere Coquard returned to France. From their story and the writings of Carver and others many stories of their discovery were told.
In a letter from Mr. LTpham, of the Minne- sota Historical Society, to the Montana His- torical Society, in regard to the Verandrye ex- pedition, he says in part : 'T believe Veran- drye's camp of January the eighth. 1743, was in the south edge of Montana or on the north edge of Wyoming, not far northeast of the Big Horn mountains, and near the southeast corner of the present Crow Indian reservation. The part of Montana which this expedition crossed was only its southeast corner, south of the Yel- lowstoae ri\er." The location of the lead plate and cairn, mentioned above, he says "was close to the fort of the Choke Cherry Indians on the Missouri, somewhere in the region of the line between South Dakota and Nebraska."
For many years after the Verandrye ex- ploration this country was absolutely aban- doned by the military and as a consequence the French traders worked themselves into the good graces of the Inilians. In 1752 and 1753, two expeditions were sent out by Governor Jonquierre-Lamarque de Martin in charge of the Missouri division and Jacques Logardeurde St. Pierre and Boucher de Niverville in com- mand of the Saskatchewan division. These expeditions met with little success, but the re- sults were beneficial in that many men of each expedition remained in the country. They established Fort Jonquierre, Fort Bourlxin and a number of temixjrary forts on the Missouri river.
Jonathan Carver, a soldier, is also sometimes credited with having- crossed the continent, cer- tain authorities stating that he left Boston June 6, 1766, crossed the continent to the Pacific and returned in October, 1768. This view is not held by any of the historians of the present dav, however.
CHAPTER II
MISSISSIPPI TO THE COAST.
Louisaiia had become a part of the terri- tory of the United States, by treaty of Paris, April 30, 1803. In the meantime the Lewis and Clark expedition had been organized.
That portion of Lewis and Clark's expedi- tion with which this history concerns itself must relate chiefly to the achievements of these intrepid captains after they had entered the ter- ritory known as Montana.
Aside from Captains Clark and Lewis, the party of the expedition consisted of nine young men from Kentucky, fourteen L'nited States soldiers, who had volunteered their services, two French watermen (an interpreter and hunter), and a black servant employed by Cap- tain Clark. Before the close of 1803 prepara- tions for the voyage were all completed, and the party wintered at the mouth of Wood river, on the east bank of the Mississippi.
The following is President Jefferson's opin- ion of Captain Lewis :
Of courage undaunted : possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but impossi- bilities could divert from its direction ; careful as a fa- ther of those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of order and discipline ; intimate with In- dian character, customs and principles; habituated to the hunting life, guarded by exact observation of the vegetables and animals in his own country, against losing time in the description of objects already pos- sessed; honest, disinterested, liberal, of sound under- standing, and a fidelity to trust so scrupulous that whatever he should report would be as certain as if seen by ourselves ; with all these qualifications, as if selected and implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose. I could have no hesitation in confiding this enterprise to him.
July 5, 1803, Captain Lewis left Washing- ton, D. C, and was joined at Louisville, Ken- tucky, by Captain Clark, and proceeded on to St. Louis, where they arrived in December.
The Spanish officers were still in possession of the forts at St. Louis, not having been offi- cially notified of the transfer to France and back to the United States. The expedition camped at the mouth of the Wood river on the east bank of the Mississippi river out of the jurisdiction of the Spanish. The winter was spent here in preparation for setting out early in the spring. They broke up their winter quarters on May 14, 1804, and began the as- cent of the Missouri river. This was practi- cally an unexplored country. On October 27, 1804, they arrived at the Mandan village, re- maining here during the winter. Here they were apprised of the French traders from the British possessions, who had made overland trips to this territory. But further west than these villages the country was practically un- known to the white race. The vast country of the Platte, the Little Missouri, the Yellowstone and the head waters of the Missouri had never been penetrated by civilized man.
It was here in the winter of 1804 that a Frenchman named Charbineau joined the party with his wife, Sacajawea, or "Bird Woman," Sacajawea was a- woman of the Snake Indian tribe who had been captured in war by the Minnetarees, of whom she was purchased by Charbineau. Brackenridge's Journal says: "We had on board a Frenchman named Char- bineau, with his wife, an Indian woman of the Snake nation, both of whom accompanied Lewis and Clark to the Pacific, and were of great service. The woman, a good creature, of a mild and gentle disposition, much attached to the whites, whose manners and dress she tries to imitate ; but she had become sickly and longed to visit her native country ; her husband also, who had spent many years among the In-
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
dians, had become weary of civilized life." Clark said of Charbineau : "A man of no pecu- liar merit. Was Useful as an interpreter only, in which capacity he discharged his duties with good faith from the moment of our departure from the Mandans on the "th of April, 1805, until our return to that place in August last. * * *■ He would have been a minus function in comparison with his wife, Sacajawea, the wonderful 'Bird Woman," who contributed a full man's share to the success of the expedi- tion, besides taking care of her baby."
Orin D. Wheeler in his "Trail of Lewis and Clark," says that Sacajawea was called the "Bird Woman" of the jMinnetarees, who uncomplainingly bore her burdens with as much fortitude as the male members of the party and withstood the same hardships, be- sides taking care of her child. Many times in their travels and meetings with other tribes, she was able to act as interpreter when her husband failed, and many times her advice was asked for by the captains and was always given true weight. Sacajawea was never remuner- ated for her trip with the expedition and it should be the purpose of the government to perpetuate the memory of this noble woman with a statue in some conspicuous place. The United States Geological Survey recently fit- tingly named a peak in the Bridger range of mountains, Sacajawea Peak, on the sight of the place where she was captured as a child by the Minnetarees, and where she pointed out the pass over the mountains to Captains Lewis and Clark.
Sacajawea was of the royal blood of the Shoshoni. her brother, Cameahwait. being a noted chief of that tribe. \Miile her husljand, Charbineau. has not been very well spoken of by historians, we must give him credit for do- ing an honorable act in marrying her after he had purchased her from the Minnetarees.
Dr. J. K. Hosmer, the well known histor- ical \\'riter. in speaking of -Sacajawea, says: "Her doings were of such a character as to
make it cjuite right to claim for her a place among heroines; in the whole line of Indian heroines, indeed, from Pocahontas to Romona, not one can be mentioned whose title to hon- ored remembrance is any better than hers."
Not much can be learned of the infant who traveled so many miles with his parents on this expedition. In regard to this Ferris, in speaking of a trapping party, says : "The party was enroute from the falls of the Snake- Shoshone falls to the Miladi river in southern Idaho, and after nearly perishing from thirst on the desert, finally found the river. We spent the night carrying water to our enfeebled companions who lingered behind, and to horses left on the way. All were found except Char- bineau and his animals who was supposed to have wandered from the trail and got lost." He was afterward found among a party of the Hudson's Bay company, where he had strayed. In a footnote Ferris says : This was the infant, who together with his mother, was saved from a sudden flood near the walls of the Missouri by Captain Lewis — "c'ldc Lewis in Lewis and Clark Journals." — (It was Clark, however, and not Lewis who saved their lives.)
It is impossible to determine the time, place or manner of the death of Charbineau and wife, but it is supposed that they were the victims of a small-pox epidemic that killed so many In- dians in the years 1838 and 1839.
On the opening of spring the party contin- ued up the ^Missouri, reaching the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri. April 26, 1805. This was a great hunting ground, abounding in buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, and other small game. Timber was abundant, and grew to a greater size than in moSt places on the Missouri. The timber consisted principally of Cottonwood, box-alder, elm and ash.
In describing the two rivers at the mouth of the Yellowstone, the journals give the width of the Yellowstone, including a sandbar, as 858 yards, with 297 yards of water; the Missouri
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
with a bed 520 yards and the water occupying 330 yards witli a deep channel. Continuing up the Alissouri, the country was found to be uneven and broken; the timber was not as heavy; the woods were green; two small streams flowed from the north; game was abundant.
Early the next morning, the wind being favorable, they proceeded up the river, cover- ing twenty-fi\'e miles during the day, and in the evening camped at the mouth of ^Martha's river, now known as the Big Muddy. Lewis, who was on shore with a hunter, met two white bears. We must not confound these bears with the polar bear, as they have never been found in this latitude. The probability is that they were of a light shade, and belonged to the same species as the bear commonly known in these parts. The Indians spoke of the white bear as a ferocious animal. On approaching these two, Captain Lewis and the hunter fired, each wounding a bear. One escaped, the other turned upon Captain Lewis, followed him about eighty yards, and was brought down by the third shot from his gun. It weighed about 300 pounds. The Martha's river was de- scribed as being fifty yards wide, with water for fifteen yards. Captain Clark ascended the river for three miles and reported the width to \-ary but little from what it was at the mouth, that the banks were steep, but not deep, and that the bed was muddy.
The following day they passed some lodges of driftwood, which, from all appearances, had not been inhabited lately. On the approach of evening, after having traveled a distance of 24 miles, they camped on a sand island. Farther on a curious collection of bushes was observed, about thirty feet in height, and from ten to twelve inches in diameter, tied together at the top, which was supposed to have been left as a religious sacrifice by the Indians.
With game of all sorts in abundance they went on, and on May the eighth, reached a stream of a peculiar whiteness, which they
named from the milky color of its water. ]\Iilk river, which name it still retains. On the following day they passed a most ex- traordinary river, which was called Big Dry. Like many mountain streams it is a raging torrent when the snow is melting and at other times completely dry. ,\t this time there was no water in the stream, hence the name.
On the nth of ]\lay, one of the party who had been permitted to walk on shore had an ad- venture worthy of mention here: "About five in the afternoon, one of our men who had been afflicted with the piles and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the boat with loud cries and every symptom of terror and distress; for some time after we had taken him on Ijoard he was so much out of breath as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety, but at length told us that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear, which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him ; but the bear being badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis with seven men went in search of him and having found his track, fol- lowed him by his blood for a mile, and found him concealed in some thick brush wood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. * * Our man had shot him through the lungs, yet he had pursued him furiously for half a mile, then returned more than twice that dis- tance, and with his talons had prepared for himself a Ijed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long, and was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two hours after he had received the wound."
May 14th was a notable day for the explor- ers. We read in the journals of two remarka- ble incidents that occurred on this day. "To- wards evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown bear ; * * * six of them, all good hunters, concealing them- selves by a small eminence, came unpercei\-ed within forty paces, of him. Four of the hunt- ers now fired, and each lodged a ball in his
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
body, two of them directly through his lungs. The furious animal sprang up and ran open- mouthed upon them : as he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him two rounds, one of which, breaking his should- er, retarded his motion for awhile, but before they could reload he was so near that they were obliged to run to the river. * * * Two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated, and concealing themselves in the wil- lows, fired as fast as each could reload. * * * At last he (the bear) pursued two of them so closely that they threw aside their gims and pouches and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty feet into the water. The bear sprang after them, and was within a few feet of the hindmost when one of the hunters on shore shot him in the head and finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions."
In camp an accident was barely escaped which would have meant much to the progress of the party. One of the canoes, containing all the papers, instruments, medicine and other in- dispensable articles, being under sail when a sudden squall of wind came up, was almost lost. Had not the accident been averted when it was three of the men on board might have been lost, they being unable to swim. This incident was due to Charbineau, who was at the helm, and who instead of doing the right thing at the right time lost his head, and by so doing al- most lost the boat ; and not until the bowsman threatened to shoot him did he do his duty. All credit is due Sacajawea, who calmly con- ducted herself and saved many of the articles that would have been lost but for her. The next da}- v»'as spent in drying the goods. The gi-eatest loss sustained was the loss of medicines.
On the 17th the party started early and pro- ceeded very well. The banks being firm and the shores bold, they were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever the banks would per-
mit it, proved to be the safest and most expedi- tious mode of ascending the river, except under sail with a steady breeze. The country in gen- eral was found to be rugged, the hills high, with their sides and top covered with timber. The lower part of the hills was a rich dark loam. The timber on the ri\er consisted of scarcely anything more than a few scattered Cottonwood trees. The game abounded in great quantities, but the buffalo were not so numerous as they were some days before; two rattlesnakes were seen that day, and one of them killed. It resembled those of the middle Atlantic states.
The next day nineteen miles were covered. Weiser's creek was discovered and named after Peter Weiser, one of the privates of the com- pany. The towline was used this day and the following to good advantage, the shore;-, being clear.
Of ]\Iay 20th the journals say: "As usual. we set out early, and the banks being convenient for that purpose, we used the tow- line. The river is narrow and crooked, the water rapid, and the country much like that of yesterday. At a distance of tw'O and one- fourth miles we passed a large creek from the south with but little water, to which we gave the name of Blowing-fly creek, from the quan- tity of those insects found in this neighborhood. They are very troublesome, infesting our meat while we are cooking, and our meals. After making seven miles we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large river on the south and camped for the day at the upper point of its junction with the INIissouri.
"This stream, which we suppose to be that called by the JNIinnitarees (jMahtush-ahzhah) the jMuscleshell (Musselshell) river, empties into the Missouri 2,270 miles above the moutli of the latter river, in latitude 47 north. It is no feet wide, and contains. more water than streams of that size usually do in this country : its current is be no means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible of
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
navigation by canoes for a considerable dis- tance. Its bed is chiefly formed in coarse sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; the banks are abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed; the water is of a greenish yellow- cast and much more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer than below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. Opposite the mouth of the junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, and 222 yards in width ; the bed is principally of mud, the little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points, and the water is still too deep to use the setting pole.
"If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information is that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this place it waters a high broken country, well timbered, particularly on its borders, and interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, howe\-er, to believe, from their giving a sim- ilar account of the timber where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is similar to that which we have seen for a few days past, \\hich consists of nothing more than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, and an im- mense quantity of prickly pear; though the party who explored it eight miles represented the low grounds on the river to be well sup- plied with Cottonwood of a tolerable size and of an excellent soil. They also report that the country is broken and irregular, like that near our camp ; and that about five miles up, a hand- some river, about fifty yards wide, which we named after Charbineau's wife, Sacajahweah's or the Birdwoman's river, discharges into the Musselshell on the north or upper side.
"Another party (i. e. John Shields) found at the foot of the southern hills, about four
miles from the Missouri, a fine bold spring, which in this country is so rare that since we left the Mandans we have found only one of a similar kind. That was under the bluffs on the south side of the Missouri, at some dis- tance from it, and about five miles below the Yellowstone. With this exception, all the small fountains, of which we have met a num- ber, are impregnated with the salts which are so abundant here, and with which the Missouri is itself probably tainted, though to us, who have been so much accustomed to it, the taste is not perceptible.
"Among the game we observed today were two large owls, with remarkably long feathers resembling ears on the sides of the head, which we presume are hooting owls, though they are larger and their colors are brighter than those common in the United States."
During the next few days several small streams were found, each being named after some of the men of the party. The buffalo, were scarce; beaver, bear, antelope, and deer not as plentiful as farther down the river.
On the 26th Windsor creek was discovered. A few miles beyond they came to another creek flowing from the north. It was from here, after ascending to the topmost hills, that Cap- tain Lewis first got a view of the Rockies. Four and a half miles beyond this creek they came to the upper point of a sand island. Says the journal : "At a distance of five miles be- tween high bluffs, we found a very difficult rapid, reaching quite across the river, where the water is deep, the channel narrow, and gravel obstructing it on each side ; we had great trouble in ascending it, although we used both the rope and the pole and doubled the crew. This is the most considerable rapid on the Missouri, and in fact, the only place where there is a sudden descent ; as we were laboring over them a female elk with its fawn swam down through the waves, which ran very high, and obtained for the place the name of Elk Rapids."
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
Wednesday, the 29th was an eventful day: "Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy," reports the journal. "A buffalo swam over from the opposite side to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over which he clamb- ered to the shore; then taking fright he ran full speed up the bank toward our fires, and passed within 18 inches of the heads of some of our men, before the sentinel could make him change his course. Still more alarmed, he ran down between our fires and within a few inches of the heads of the second row of men, and would have broken into the lodge if the barking of the dog had not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right, and was out of sight in a moment, leaving us all in confu- sion, everyone seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of alarm. On learning what had hap- pened, we had to rejoice at suffering no more injury than the damage to some guns which were in the canoe which the buffalo crossed.
"In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded as usual by cord. We passed an island and two sandbars; at the distance of two and one-half miles came to a handsome river which discharges on the south, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half. We called it Judith's river. It rises in the Rocky mountains, in about the same place with the Musselshell, and near the Yellow- stone. Its entrance is 100 yards wide from bank to bank, the water occupying about 75 yards, and in greater quantity than that of the Musselshell river; though more rapid, it is equally navigable, there being no stones or rocks in its bed, which is composed entirely of gravel and mud with some sand. The water is clearer than any which we have yet seen ; and the low grounds, as far as we could dis- cern, are wider and more woody than those of the Missouri. Along its banks we obsen-ed some box-elder intermixed with cnttnnwood and willow, the undergrowth cnnsisting of rose bushes, honey-suckles and a little red willow. There was a great abundance of
the argali, or big-horned animal, in the high country through which it (Judith's river) passes, and a great number of beaver in its waters.
"Just above the entrance of it we saw the fires of 126 lodges, which appeared to have been deserted about 1 2 or 15 days ; and on the other side of the Missouri a large camp, ap- parently made by the same nation. On exam- ining some moccasins which we found here, our Indian woman said that they did not be- long to her own nation, the Snake Indians, but she thought that they indicated a tribe on this side of the Rocky mountains, and to the north of the Missouri; indeed it-is probable that these are the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie. At the distance of six and one-half miles the hills again approach the bank of the river, and the stones and rocks washed down fmni them form a very bad rapid, with rocks and ripples more numerous and difficult than those we passed on the 27th and 28th. Here the same scene is again renewed, and we had again to struggle and labor to preserve our small craft from being lost. Near this spot are a few trees of ash, the first we have seen for a great distance and from which we named the place Ash Rapids. On these hills there is but little timber, but the salts, coal and other mineral appearances continue.
"On the north we passed a precipice about 130 feet high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least 100 carcases of buffaloes, although the water which washed away the lower part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloes have been chased down the precipice in a way ^•ery com- mon on the Missouri, by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a buffalo skin around his body ; the skin of the head with the ears and horns being fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffalo. Thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient dis-
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
tance between the herd of buffalo and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions in the mean- time get in the rear and side of the herd, and at a given signal show themselves and advance toward the bufYaloes. These instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside them, they run toward the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the river; when, suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the rock which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the brink of the precipice. It is then in vain for the foremost buffaloes to retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, which, see- ing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them until the whole are precipi- tated, and the shore is strewn with dead bodies. Sometimes in this perilous seduction, the In- dian is himself either trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes or missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the preci- pice by the falling herd. The Indians then se- lect as much meat as they wish; the rest is abandoned to the wolves, and creates a dread- ful stench. The wolves which had been feed- ing on these carcasses were very fat. and so gentle that one was killed with an espontoon. "Above this place we came-to for dinner at the distance of 17 miles (from camp), oppo- site a bold running river, 20 yards wide, fall- ing in on the south. From the objects we had just passed we called this river Slaughter river. Its low grounds are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon after landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect of getting wood or fuel farther on, we fixed our camp on the north, three quar- ters of a mile above Slaughter river. After the labors of the day. we gave each man a dram, and such was the effect of long absti- nence from spirituous liquors that, from the small quantity of half a gill of rum, some of the men were considerably affected, and all
very much exhilarated. Our game today con- sisted of an elk and two beaver."'
The next day they passed several places where Indians had been camped not many weeks previously, who were supposed to be moving slowly up the river. From where they left the Minnetarees there had been no sign of permanent abodes of Indians, although no place was exempt from occasional visits.
The next day, ]May 31, after having as- cended nine miles : "We came to a high wall of black rock rising from the water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river; this continued about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a high plain, till three miles farther a second wall 200 feet high, rose on the same side. Three miles farther a wall of the same kind, about 200 feet high and 1,200 feet in thickness, appeared to the north. These hills and river cliffs ex- hibit a most extraordinary and romantic ap- pearance; they rise in most places nearly per- pendicular from the water, to the height of 200 and 300 feet, and are formed of very white sandstone. In trickling down the cliffs, the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures, among which with a little fancy may be discerned elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with statuan- ; on a nearer approach they represent elegant ruins; columns, some with pedestals and capitals entire, others mutilated and pros- trated, and some rising, p3TamidalIy, over each other till they terminate in a sharp point. In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship."
On the first of June, they dragged along against a contrary wind for twenty-three miles. During this day, chokecherries, yellow and red currant bushes, and wild roses and prickly pear, were observed. The wild roses were in bloom.
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
Game was very abundant through this section, and they spoke of the necessity of beginning a collection of hides for the pin^pose of making a leather boat, the same having been under consideration.
The hunters, on the second, brought in six elk, two buffaloes, two mule deer and a bear. During the day Several islands were passed, most of them containing some timber. After having traveled i8 miles, they camped on the south side of the iNIissouri, opposite the mouth of a large river. Here our explorers were at a loss. They had gathered all the information they could from the Indians, but this river had not been mentioned, so the expedition was in absolute ignorance as to this body of water. Before proceeding, these streams must be ex- plored, and accordingly, as narrated in Coues journals, we have the following examination : "^Monday, the third, we crossed and fixed our camp at the point formed by the junction of this river with the Missouri. It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams is what the Minnetarees call Ahma- teahza, or Missouri, which they describe as ap- proaching very near the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the expedi- tion depends; since if, after ascending to the Rocky mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we were following did not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to re- turn, we should not only lose the traveling season, two months of which has already elapsed, but probably dishearten the men s.i much as to induce them to abandon the enter- prise, or yield us a cold obedience, instead of the warm and zealous support which they have hitherto afforded us. We determined, there- fore, to examine Avell before we decided on our future course. For this purpose we dispatched t\v(i canoes with three men up each of the streams, with orders to ascertain the depth, width, and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent out by land
to penetrate the countr}-, and discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearing of the two rivers ; and all were directed to re- turn toward exening.
"While they were gone we ascended to- gether the high grounds in the fork of these two rivers, whence we had a very extensive prospect of the surrounding country. On every side it was spread into one vast plain, covered with verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloes were roaming, attended by their enemies, the wolves ; some flocks of elk also were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered with their young over the face of the plain. To the south was a range of lofty (up to about 6,000 feet; High wood) mountains, which we supposed to be a continuation of the south (i. e. Judith) mountain, stretching from southeast to northwest and terminating ab- ruptly about southwest of us. These were partially covered with snow ; but at a great dis- tance behind them was a more lofty ridge (Lit- tle Belt .mountains), completely covered with snoAV, which seemed to follow the same direc- tion as the first, reaching from west to north- west, where their snowy tops were blended with the horizon. The direction of the rivers could not, however, be long distinguished as they were soon lost in the extent of the plain. On our return we continued our examination; the width of the north branch (Marias river) is 200 yards and that of the south t,/2. The north, although narrower and with a gentler current, is deeper than the south branch, its waters are of the same whitish brown color, thickness, and turbidness, and run in the same boiling and rolling manner which has uniform- ly characterized the Missouri; the bed is com- posed of some gravel, but principally mud. The south fork (i. e. the Missouri itself) is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent ; its current is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled : and its bed is composed of round and flat smooth stones like those of rivers issuing from a mountainous country.
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"The air and character of the north fork so much resembles those of the Missouri that ahnost all the party believe that to be the true course to be pursued. We, however, though we have given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise; because, although this branch does give the color and character to the Missouri, yet these very circmnstances in- duce an opinion that it rises in and runs through an open plain country, since if it came from the mountain it would be clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground after leaving them. We thought it probable that it did not even penetrate the Rocky moun- tains, but drew its source from the open coun- try toward the lower and middle parts of the Saskaskawan, in the direction north of this place. What embarrasses us most is that the Indians, who appeared to be well acquainted with the geography of the country, have not mentioned this northern river; for 'the river that scolds at all others,' as it is termed, must be, according to their account, one of the rivers which we have passed ; and if this north fork be the Missouri, why have they not designated the south branch, which they must also have passed in order to reach the great falls which they mention on the Missouri.
'Tn the evening our parties returned, after ascending the rivers in canoes for some dis- tance and then continuing on foot, just leaving themselves time to return by night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded the easiest navigation ; the shallowest water of the north was five feet deep, that of the south six feet. At two and one-half miles up the north fork is a small river (Teton) coming in on the left or western side, 60 feet wide, with a bold current three feet in depth. The party by land had gone up the south fork in a straight line somewhat north of west for seven miles, where they discovered this little river (Teton) came within 100 yards of the south fork; and on returning down it, found it a handsome
stream, with as much timber as either of the large rivers, consisting of the narrow and wide leaved Cottonwood, some birch and box-elder, with an undergrowth of willows, rosebushes and currants. They also saw on this river a great number of elk and some beaver.
"All these accounts were, however, very far from deciding the important question of our future route. We therefore determined, each of us, to ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march, or further if neces- sary for our satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffalo, six elk, and four deer today. Along the plains near the junction are to be found the prickly pear in great quantities ; the chokecherry is also very abundant in the river low grounds, as well as the ravines along the river bluffs; the yellow and red currants are not vet ripe; the gooseberry is beginning to ripen, and the wild rose which covers all the low grounds near the river is in full bloom. The fatigues of the last few days have occa- sioned some falling ofi in the appearance of the men; who, not being able to wear mocca- sins, have had their feet much bruised and mangled in passing over the stones and rough ground. They are, however, perfectly cheer- ful, and have an undiminished ardor for the expedition."
On the morning of the fourth, Captaia Lewis and Captain Clark, set out to explore the two streams. Captain Lewis crossed the north fork and explored this river. He pro- ceeded in a northerly direction until the sixth when he decided to return, having convinced himself that this stream pursued a direction too far north for the route to the Pacific. He waited until noon to take a meridian altitude and then returned, arriving at the camp at the confluence of the two rivers on the eighth. "1 determined to give it a name," he said, "and in honor of Miss Maria Wood, called it Maria's river."
Captain Clark explored the south branch for a distance of fortv-five miles, and returned.
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
13
arriving at camp on the evening of the sixth Here he remained until the arrival of Captain Lewis on the eighth. Captains Lewis and Clark compared their observations and concluded that the south branch must be the stream which leads well into the mountains. They had been apprised by the Indians of the clear water of the river at the falls. This was true of the water of the south branch. It seemed to them that this must be the right course to take, for were it not the Indians would certainly have made mention of a stream of this size flowing from the south.
The conclusions were communicated to the party, who to a man, was of a contrary opin- ion. However, they were willing to abide by the conclusions as arrived at.
It was agreed that one of them (Lewis or Clark) should ascend by land and the other take the river. In the meantime, in order to lessen their burdens as much as possible, they determined to leave one of their periogues and all the baggage not absolutely needed. This they did, securely fastening the periogue on an island near the mouth of the Maria, and se- creting the baggage that could be dispensed with.
On the morning of the eleventh, Lewis, with a party of four men, set out by land. Two days later they heard the sound of a fall of water. As they drew nearer the sound became too tremendous to be anything else than the water pouring over the Great Falls of the Missouri.
Captain Lewis describes the river at this point in a very graphic way as follows : "The river immediately at this cascade is 300 yards wide, and is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about 100 feet and extends up the stream for a mile : on the right the bluff is also perpendicular for 300 yards above the falls. For 90 or 100 yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least 80 feet. The remaining part of the river precipitates
itself with a more rapid current, but being re- ceived as it falls by the irregular and project- ing rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam, 200 yards in length and 80 in perpendicular elevation. This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in columns 15 or 20 feet, which are then oppressed by larger masses of white foam, on all which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow. As it rises from the fall it beats with fury against a ledge of rock which extends across the river at 150 yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the north, to the distance of 120 yards, the rocks rise only a few feet above the water; when the river is high the stream finds a chan- nel across them 40 yards wide and near the higher parts of the ledge, which then rise about 20 feet and terminate abruptly within 80 or 90 yards of the southern shore. Between them and the perpendicular cliff on the south the whole body of water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks, which serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres, shaded with Cottonwood, at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same tree, where are several Indians' cabins of sticks; below the point of them the river is divided by a large rock, sev- eral feet above the surface of the water, and ex- tending down the stream for twenty yards. At the distance of 300 yards from the same ridge is a second abutment of solid perpendicular rock about 60 feet high, projecting at right angles from the small plain on the north for 134 yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads itself to its usual distance of 300 yards, though with more than its ordinary rapidity."
Several days were spent in working their way up the succession of falls. The most re- markable of these they called Crooked Falls. While viewing this romantic fall, Captain Lewis heard a loud roar from above them. Crossing over the point, which lay between
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
them and the noise of rushing water, they came in sight of one of nature's grandest scenes. Captain Clark described it in the following picturesque language: "The whole of the ^lis- souri is stopped by one shelving rock, which, without a single niche, and with an edge as straight and regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this the water precipitates itself in an even, uninterrupted sheet, to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence dashing against the rocky bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river."
The journal tells us that "Just below the falls is a' little island in the middle of the river, well covered with timber. Here on a cotton- wood tree an eagle had fixed her nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of the spot, to contest which dominion, neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it." The story of the eagle's nest had been related to the party by the Indians at a much earlier date and this helped to impress upon their minds the fact that they could not be mis- taken in the course.
After Captain Lewis departed Captain Clark remained in the camp one day to secrete the articles which could be dispensed with, and on the 1 2th started up the river. Navigation was slow and difficult, due to the rapidity of the current. On the 13th they reached the spot where Captain Clark had encamped on the fourth. At this place they were met by one of Lewis's men who came with the welcome intel- ligence that Lewis had discovered the falls. By noon of the i6th they had approached within five miles ol the falls, having crossed one con- siderable rapids in the morning. Lewis joined them here, having come down from the falls, and they discussed the most feasible method of crossing over the falls. It was decided that Clark make a tour of the country up the river and locate a route by which the baggage could be most easily transported. After the most
feasible route had been determined upon the men were put to work transferring it to where the river was navigable above the falls, a dis- tance of some seventeen miles. They again deposited part of the baggage before beginning the trip around the falls.
Anticipating the need of a light boat that could be easily carried where the stream was not navigable, the explorers brought with them an iron frame from which to construct a boat. Skins of buffalo and elk were stretched over this skeleton, making it the lightest possible. "The boat was completed," says the journal, "except what is in fact the most difficult part, the making her seams secure."
To use the words of the journal, "We had intended to dispatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this spring ; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to calculate on their friend- ship or enmity, we had decided not to weaken our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility. \\'e were afraid, too, that such a measure might dishearten those who remained ; as we have never suggested to them, they are all perfectly and enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing to encounter any danger to insure its success.''
On the fifth the boat was ele\ated so that a fire could be kindled under it, in order that it might be dried more rapidly. A composition of powdered charcoal with beeswax and buffalo- tallow was used to prevent it from leaking. The journal says : "Besides the want of tar, we have been unlucky in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a point merely. Although a long thong was used in order to fill the holes, yet it shrinks in drying and leaves them open, so that we fear the boat will leak." A few days later we read : "The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next morning she was launched into the water.
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
and swam perfectly well. The seats then were fixed and the oars fitted; but after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting' out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to unload the boats. The wind con- tinued high until evening, when to our great disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had separated from the skins and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we there- fore, however reluctantly, are obliged to aban- don her, after having so much labor in the con- struction."
Now that the boat had proved a failure, they must construct others to take its place. The timber was very scarce throughout the upper course of the river — timber large enough for their purpose. The country was searched for trees large enough and at about eight miles distant they found two cottonwoods. which when fallen, did not prove to be very well suited for the purpose, but as nothing better was attainable they were used.
These boats being constructed, the party continued on to the three forks of the river, reaching there in ten days. During this time the journal makes mention of observing many wild roses, sage, box-elder, service berries, chokecherries, black, yellow, red and purple currants, wild onions, garlic, abundance of sun flowers, aspen, and a few species of trees, but none of large dimensions ; elk, deer, otter, black snakes, beaver, sand hill cranes, pheasants, wild geese and ducks, a few bear and buffalo. The buffalo were not so numerous as at points down the river, neither were other game animals found in such great numbers.
A few miles distant from tlie falls a large Indian lodge was passed which evidently had been designed as a great council fire, but in construction it differed from any the party had seen further down the river. It was built in
the form of a circle, 216 feet in circumference at its base. It was composed of 16 cotton wood poles the thickness of a man"s body and about fifty feet long, which converged to a point and . were tied together with withes of willow brush. On the 1 6th 40 little booths were passed. The journal says : "These seemed to ha\e been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, whom we hoped soon to meet, as they appeared, from their tracks, to have a number of horses with them."
During the same day they passed on the left side of tlie river a frame of a large lodge, which was 60 feet in diameter, around which was the remains of 80 leather lodges, all of which seemed to have been built during the last fall. On the i8th the journal says: "Being very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them notice of our approach. If by accident they hear us they will most likely retreat to the mountains, mis- taking us for their enemiies, who usually attack them on this side."
Accordingly Captain Clark with three men followed the course of the ri\-er on the north bank until well in the afternoon, when he cross- ed over a mountain to the river beyond, thus cutting ofif several miles. In so doing he dis- covered an Indian trail, which he followed.
The Gates of the Rockies, a remarkable canyon of the jNIissouri. results from the con- finement of the Missouri by a spur of the Big Belt mountains, and is described by Captain Lewis in the following manner :
A mile and a half beyond this creek (now the Cot- tonwood), the rocks approach the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three-quarter miles these rocks rise per-
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
pendicular from the water's edge, to the height o£ nearly 1,200 feet. They are composed of a hlack gran- ite near the base, but from their lighter color above, and from the fragments, we suppose the upper part to be flint, of a yellowish brown or flint color. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. The river, 150 yards in width, seems to have forced its channel down this solid mass ; but so reluctantly has the rock given away that, during the whole distance, the water is very deep even at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the towering per- pendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the pas- sage must have been terrible, since at its outlet are vast columns of rock torn from the mountain, which are strewn on both sides of the river — the trophies, as it were, of a victory. Several fine springs burst out from the chasms of the rocks, and contribute to in- crease the river, which has now a strong current; but very fortunately we are enabled to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to camp on; but at length about two miles above a small island in the middle of the river, we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of light wood and pitch pine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky mountains.
Continuing the account of the journey, the journal says :
"At a mile from the Gates a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties behind an island in the middle of a bend to the west. To this stream, which is 15 yards wide, we gave the name of Pott's creek, after John Potts, one of our men.
"Up this valley about ten miles we discov- ered a great smoke, as if the whole coimtry had been set on fire; but were at a loss to decide whether it had been done accidentally by Cap- tain Clark's party, or by the Indians as a sig- nal on their observing us. We afterward learned that this was the fact; for they had heard a gun fired by one of Captain Clark's men, and believing that their enemies were ap- proaching, had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the plains as a warning to their countrymen."
On July 22 after the party had passed sev-
eral small islands and a creek that flowed from their right as they ascended, we read from the journal as follows : "We were delighted to find that the Indian woman recognized the country ; she tells us that to this creek her coun- trymen make excursions to procure white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it White- earth creek. She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no great distance — a piece of intelligence that has cheered us all, as we hoped soon to reach the head of that river." On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark ar- rived at the Three Forks of the Missouri, the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin. After exam- ining the three rivers he found that the right branch contained the most water, and that it bore further to the west. Having this knowl- edge he determined to ascend it. He left a note informing Captain Lewis of his intention, and then ascended that stream, proceeding up the stream to his right. They camped for the night, having cut off 25 miles. The ne.xt morn- ing the party, except Charbineau and one of the men left with him, the former being una- ble to accompany them, advanced up the river and to the top of a mountain where he had a splendid view of the surrounding country. No signs of the Indians were to be seen. They returned to the camp where they left Charbi- neau. Captain Clark having decided to cross over to the Madison and examine it, they crossed over to the east side of the Jefferson and then to a branch of it that empties into it a few miles above the Three Forks. In the meantime, while crossing the Jefferson Charbi- neau was swept off his feet, and being unable to swim, would have lost his life had not Clark rescued him. They camped for the night about four miles distant from their last encamp- ment. Captain Clark was well worn out and during the night had quite a fever. The next day, however, he was able to resume his route for eight miles to the middle branch, the Madi- son. From here he proceeded down the stream to the forks and joined Lewis and his party.
I
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
During this time Captain Lewis had ad- vanced to the confluence of these rivers and made some explorations.
After speaking of the unl<no\vn country, of not having seen the Indians, of the fear that game would be scarce, of the possibility of not finding a passage across the mountains that would lead to the Columbia, the journal con- tinues : "Our consolation is that this south- west branch can scarcely head with any other river than the Columbia ; and that if any nation of Indians can live in the mountains we are able to endure as much as they can ; and have even better means of procuring subsistence."
On the 30th of July the canoes were loaded, and they moved forward from the Three Forks of the Missouri up the JefYerson river. Near tioon they reached the spot where the Bird- woman had been made a prisoner. Her story was that the men being too few to contend with the Minnetarees, mounted their horses and fled as soon as the attack began. The women and children dispersed, and Sacajawea, as she was crossing a shoal place, was over- taken in the middle of the river by her pursuers.
Captain Clark being unwell, Lewis took the advance. August the fourth he reached the mouth of a ri\-er which flows from the south- west, the Wisdom. This stream is now known as the Big Hole, or Wisdom, river. The party marched up this stream to a point near where it issues from the mountains. Here they went into camp for the night. In the morning Lewis and Drewyer continued up the river to a nar- row canyon, from which place they ascended a mountain. From this eminence they were in full view of the valleys of both the JefYerson and Wisdom.
In the meantime, before leaving the mouth of the Wisdom, Lewis left a note for Clark, instructing him to ascend the Jefferson. Clark reached the confluence of these streams Au- gust 6th, "but unluckily Captain Lewis's note had been left on the green pole which the beaver had cut down and carried off with the
note." Clark was now at a loss to know which branch to ascend; but decided on the right, which stream he ascended for several miles, until he met one of the hunters of Lewis's party who was coming down the ri\'er, who apprised him of his mistake. Clark returned to the forks of the river.
Before Clark reached the Jefferson he was overtaken by Captain Lewis, who accompanied him down the stream. Having reached the confluence of the rivers, they went into camp for the night, intending to ascend the Jefferson in the morning.
Immediately after breakfast in the morn- ing, August the 9th, Captain Lewis took three men, "and set out with a resolution to meet some nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be separated from the party." He did not follow the course of the river, but took his course across the country. By the next evening they had come to a beauti- ful cove, which he called Shoshone cove. They spent the night here and early the next morn- ing they started up the river. Scarcely had they advanced five miles when Captain Lewis percei\-ed a man on horseback. He was at a distance of two miles and was approaching them. ^Vhen within one mile distance of Cap- tain Lewis be observed him and suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis employed the signs of friendship most common among Indian tribes and at the same time calling to him, repeating the words, "fabba bone." which means in the Shoshonean language, white man. But the In- dian did not approach any nearer, but remained in the place where he had stopped. Lewis advanced towards him until he had approached within one hundred yards, when he "suddenly turned his horse, and giving him the whip, leaped across the creek and disappeared in an instant among- the willow bushes. With him \anished all hopes which the sight of him in- spired, of a friendly introduction to his coun- trymen."
On the morning of the 12th of August they
i8
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
continued up the main stream on their right. The stream gradually became smaller, till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on each side of the river; thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden source of the river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man. They then crossed the continental di- vide and "followed a descent much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at a distance of three-quarters of a mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear water, running to the westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters of the Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the road across the steep hills and low hollows, till they reached a spring on the side of the mountain."
The next day they discovered two women, a man, and some dogs. They were at the distance of a mile and fled at the approach of the party. Continuing their journey the party had not gone more than a mile when they saw three more Indian women. Lewis and his party were not observed until within thirty paces of them. "One of them, a young woman, immediately took flight, the other two, an eld- erly woman and a little girl, seeing they were too near- for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if re- conciled to the death which they supposed awaited them." Lewis repeated to them the words "tabba boiic," and at the same time strip- ping up his shirt sleeves to prove that he was a white man. This relieved them from their alarm. Lewis informed them by signs that he desired to go to their camp to see the chiefs. While being directed in the direction of the camp, they were met by sixty warriors, all mounted. The women, who had gone in ad- vance, informed the warriors that they were white men; and when they approached each other, they were given a warm welcome. Cap- tain Lewis lighted a pipe and offered it to the
Indians, who had now seated themselves in a circle around the party. \Mien the smoking was concluded, the warriors and the party moved on to the camp of the Indians, which was four miles distant. Here Lewis informed them of his mission. After spending some time time with the chiefs he walked down to the Lemhi river. "The chief informed him that this stream discharged at a distance of a half day's walk, into another (Salmon river) of twice its size — and that it was rocky, rapid, and so closely confined between mountains that it was impossible to pass down it by land or water to the great lake (Pacific ocean) where, as he had understood, the white man lived."
Captain Lewis, having secured the good will of Cameahwait, the chief, informed him of his party at the forks of the Jefferson, and en- deavored to engage him and a number of his men to accompany him, and assured them they should be rewarded for their trouble. Many of them were skeptical, fearing that they might be enemies. After the chief and a few of the men started, nearly all the warriors followed. After reacliing the main party they were given many little trinkets and clothing. Here Sacajawea. while acting as interpreter, recog- nized, in the person of Cameahwait, her broth- er. "She instantly jumped up, and ran and em- braced him, throwing over him her blanket and weeping profusely," in the language of the explorers.
Ten horses were purchased and paid for in merchandise. At noon August 24, they were all ready and started for the Shoshone camp. The Indians were paid to assist in transporting the baggage across the mountains to the other side.
The Indians informed them that the river was very rapid and rough, and that it was im- possible to descend it. The explorers, how- ever, advanced down the river for about thirty miles, only to learn that it would be impossible to continue further. When with the Shoshones
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
19
at the Lemhi camp, tliey secured the services of an old Indian guide, which were found to be very valuable to them.
After a few days observation, they decided to advance farther to the north. On the fourth of September they crossed the Bitter Root mountains and followed down a stream for three miles to where it joined with a larger stream, the Ross fork. In the valley at the junction of the streams they found an Indian encampment. These were the Ootloshoots, or Flatheads. They numliered thirty-three lodges, or 400 souls, eighty of which were men. They purchased from the Indians a number of horses, which, with the ones brought along with them from the Shoshones, made fifty in all.
After leaving the Indian village, they con- tinued in a northerly course down the Bitter Root valley, reaching Tra\'elers-rest creek, now the Lolo. September 9th, where they re- mained two days. On the afternoon of the eleventh, the expedition left Travelers-rest, turning to the west, and advanced up the stream — which country was found to be very rough and hard to travel over.
The Indians had informed them of the scarcity of game when near the top of the mountains and on the west side, which state- ments they found to be true. The Indians of this region depended for sustenance, to a great extent, on berries and various roots. We read from Gass's journal of the twelfth, that after "having traveled two miles we reached the mountains which are very steep: but the road over them very good, as it is traveled much by the natives, who come across to the Flathead river to gather cherries and berries."
During the two days following the depart- ure of the party from Travelers-rest the moun- tains wxre crossed and the descent of the west- ern slope was made. It is not within our pro- vince tO' here relate the interesting story of the trip from this point to the Pacific ocean. We have told in detail of the trip across the great state of Montana. From the point the Lewis
and Clark party traveled in a general western direction to the Clearwater, to the Snake, tJ the Columbia, to the Pacific ocean. Wintering on the coast, they started back early in the spring of 1806, and in June we fintl them again in the Bitter Root mountains.
They arrived back at their old camp on Travelers-rest creek June 30, 1806, without the loss of a man. From the time the party started out until this time they had never been separ- ated for any great length of tiine. Now they were to be separated, and we let the journal tell of their plans and separation.
We now formed the following plan of operations : Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct route to the falls of the Missouri, where three of his party are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six he will ascend Marias river to explore the country, ascertain whether any branch of it reaches as far north as the latitude 50 degrees, after which he descends the river to its mouth. The rest of the party will accompany Captain Clark to the head of Jefferson river, which Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men will descend with the canoes and other articles deposited there. Captain Clark's party, which will then be reduced to ten men (besides himself and Sacajawea), will proceed to the Yellowstone at its nearest approach to the three forks of the Missouri. There he will build canoes and go down that river with seven men of his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party joins him. Sergeant Pryor with two others will then take the horses by land to the Mandans.
On July third, we read from the journal that, "All preparations being completed, w^c saddled our horses, and the two parties who had been so long companions, now separated with an anxious hope of soon meeting, after each had accomplished the purpose of his destina- tion."
Captain Lewis followed down the left bank of Clark's river to its junction with the "east- ern branch." This stream is now- known as Hellgate river. A short distance below this branch they constructed raftsand crossed over to the other side, the horses swimming the river. Lewis then proceeded up the Hellgate to the mouth of the Cokalahishkit (now Big Black-
HISTORY OF ^lONTANA.
foot) river, advanced up it eight miles and camped for the night. Tliis was the trail taken by the Indians to the buffalo country. By the seventh they had reached the divide. We quote the record of this day from the journal of Gass : "Having gone about five miles, we crossed the main branch of the ri\er, which comes in from the north, and up which the road goes five miles further and then takes over a hill towards the east. On the top of this hill there are two beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size. We passed over the ridge and struck a small stream, which we at first thought was of the headwaters of the Missouri, but found it was not. Here we halted for dinner, and after stay- ing three hours, proceeded on four miles up the branch, when we came to the dividing ridge between the waters of the ^lis- souri and the Columbia, passed over the ridge and came to a fine spring, the waters of v.-hich'run into the Missouri. We then kept down this stream or branch about a mile ; then turned a north course along the side of the di- viding ridge about eight miles, passing a num- ber of small streams or branches, and at nine o'clock at night encamped after coming thirty- two miles."
Here they abandoned the trail and pro- ceeded north to the Medicine, or Sun, river, following the course of this stream to its mouth, arriving there July eleventh. After spending a few days here Lewis departed on the exploration to the headwaters of the Marias river. He took with him three men. leaving the others of the party to construct boats and bring the baggage they had deposited on the west bound trip, to the mouth of the Marias river where they had been instructed to wait his arrival. They crossed from the great falls to the Teton river. Here they noticed the fresh tracks of a bleeding buffalo, which pre- sumably had been injured by Indians. This created a feeling of uneasiness, for the ]\Iinne- tarees, a very treacherous tribe, were supposed to be in this country. This scare proved to be
a false alarm and the next day they continued their journey to the Marias river, crossing six miles above the point where Lewis had as- cended the previous fall. After having com- pleted their explorations of the river, and on their return, they met with a band of Indians who proved to be Minnetarees. They all camped together for the night. During the early morning the Indians stole some of their guns and part of their horses. This resulted in one of the Indians being stabbed by one of the party, and in Captain Lewis shooting one who was making away with the horses. After being shot he took aim at Captain Lewis, the ball passing within a few inches of his head.
During the evening they were apprised of the fact that to the west and north, at a dis- tance of some 30 miles, a large band of Indians were camped. Fearing that the news would be carried to them, and that the whole tribe would pursue them, they traveled with the utmost speed to the Missouri. They did not go direct to the mouth of the ^larias, but kept to the west, where the country was not so broken, and came to the Missouri above the mouth of the Marias. Here they met the party coming down the river. The horses were turned loose and the party embarked in the boats, and hastened to the mouth of the Marias. After loading their boats with the baggage, deposited the year previous, they, on July 28, embarked down the river, reaching the junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone on August 7. Here they found a note left by Clark, showing that he had passed this point several days previous, and had advanced down the river and would wait at some convenient place.
For convenience we have followed Captain Lewis from Travelers-rest creek to the mouth of the Yellowstone. Now we return to this same place and trace Clark's party as they journey across to the Yellowstone and down its course to its confluence with the ^lissouri.
On the same day, July 3, that Lewis set out in an easterly direction, Captain Clark with
HISTORY OF AIOXTANA.
the remainder of the party, started up tlie river, crossed the mountains and through Ross' hole and camped on Camp creek. They ad- vanced up the creek tliree miles, leaving to the right the trail by which they had crossed the mountains the fall before, "and pursued the road taken by the Ootloshoots, up a gentle ascent to the dividing mountains which separ- ates the waters of the middle fork of Clark's river from those of the Wisdom and Lewis rivers." Turning eastward they were once more on the headwaters of the Wisdom river. The course from here was in a southeasterly direction across the divide between the Wis- dom and the Jefiferson rivers, and down Grass- hopper creek to the Jefiferson.
On July lo the party began their journey down the Jefferson. The boats were now load- ed, and Captain Clark divided his men into two bands, one to descend the river with the baggage, while he, with the other, proceeded on horseback to the Roche jaune.
The two divisions reached the three forks at about the same time, July 13. The same day Ordway and nine men, with six boats, sailed down the Missouri to the great falls, where he was to meet Lewis and party, which was suc- cessfully accomplished. Captain Clark at the same time struck out in an easterly direction with eleven men and Sacajawea and her child. Here Sacajawea was found to be of great value, as she had been over the country when a child and knew just where to direct the party.
On the 15th of July they crossed the divide between the Gallatin and Yellowstone rivers, and on descending the ridge they discovered a stream flowing into the Yellowstone, which course they pursued. Nine miles from the top of the ridge they reached the Yellowstone itself, about a mile and a half below where it issues from the Rocky mountains. It now appeared
that the communication between the two rivers was short and easy. From the head of the Missouri at its three forks to this place is a dis- tance of 48 miles, the greater part of which is through a level plain ; indeed, from the forks of the eastern branch of the Gallatin river (near Bozeman), which is there navigable for small canoes, to this part of the Yellowstone, the dis- tance is no more than 18 miles, with an excel- lent road o\'er a high, dry country, with hills of inconsiderable height and no difficulty in passing.
They immediately descended the river and on July 18, "a smoke was descried to the south-southeast, towards the termination of the Rocky mountains, intended most probably as a signal by the Crow Indians." On the follow- ing day, another or the same smoke was seen "on the highlands on the opposite side of the river." During the same day, "Captain Clark determined to make two canoes which, being lashed together, might be sufficient to convey the party down the river, while a few men might lead the horses to the Mandan nation."
On the 22nd, "at noon the two canoes were finished. They are 28 feet long, 16 or 18 inches deep, and from 16 to 24 inches wide, and being lashed together, evervthing was pre- pared for setting out tomorrow." The boats having been completed, they, on the 24th, pro- ceeded down the river. The trip down the river was uneventful, the journal for these days simply mentioning the character of the country, animals, and birds that were found.
About 2 o'clock on August the 23rd, they reached the junction of the Yellowstone with the Missouri, and formed a camp at the same place where they had camped on the 26th of April, 1805. On the 23rd of September, at 12 o'clock, noon, they reached St. Louis, their starting point.
CHAPTER III
THE INDIAN WARS.
During the whole of ^Montana's early his- tory Indian troubles of a more or less serious nature were almost constantly annoying the white settlers. It would be impossible for us, in a work of this kind, to treat of all the many little wars and skirmishes which took place be- tween the white settlers and volunteers and the red men. We shall confine ourselves to the two greatest events — the Custer battle of 1876 and the Nez Perce war of the year following.
Of the many battles fought with the In- dians none proved more disastrous than the battle of the Little Big Horn, where Gen. Cus- ter and all his command were surrounded by the hostile Indians and killed. This battle is remarkable in so far that not one escaped to relate the story. The simple fact that all per- ished upon the battle field, not one being alive when the other columns came up the third day after the battle, has made an accurate descrip- tion of the battle impossible; but the move- ments as traced by Colonel Reno together with the infomiation gathered from the Indians en- gaged in the battle has brought to light enough information that writers are enabled to give almost an accurate statement of the posi- tions of the different troops and the methods pursued by the Indians and a general descrip- tion of the battle.
The Sioux Indians, after having relin- quished their rights in the state of Minnesota, gradually drifted westward into the Dakotas and made the Black Hills their stronghold. In the early seventies gold was discovered in the Black Hills. Many of the gold seekers were killed and commerce and travel was impeded. All efforts on the part of the government tc; pacify the Indians having failed, force was sent to subdue them.
The Indians causing the trouble were known as the hostiles. The hostiles were made up of Indians from the various agencies who were not content to stay in the territory as- signed them. Chief among these was Sitting Bull. Other prominent chiefs were Crazy Horse, Gall, Black Moon, and Low Dog. In reality there w-as no chosen leader of these various tribes, but Sitting Bull w^as looked up to by all bands as their leader and his councils were heeded.
Sitting Bull first became famous in the Sully and Sibley expeditions of 1863 and 1864. He engaged Sully north of the Black Hills and defeated him, forcing him through the Bad Lands beyond the Powder river.
Order had gone forth to all the hostile In- dians that they should be on their agencies by January 31, 1876, and if not, that armed force would be sent to subdue them.
Lieutenant General Sheridan conducted all directions. The headquarters of General Sher- idan was in Chicago. He sent orders to Gen- eral Crook, who was located at Fort Fetter- man, to march against Crazy Horse and di- rected Terry to send a mounted column under General George A. Custer to move against Sit- ting Bull. Crazy Horse was located on Pow- der river in W'yoming and Sitting Bull on the Little Missouri in Dakota. Sheridan divided the forces into three columns; one under Gen- eral Crook, consisting of fifteen companies of cavalry and five companies of infantry (1,049 men), who was located at Fort Fetterman, was ordered to march north May 29 ; one column under General Terry, comprising the seventh cavalry, consisting of twelve companies (600 men), and six companies of infantry, three of which were to be sent on the supply steamer, a
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
23
battery of Gatling guns, and forty Indian scouts, was to move westward from Fort Abra- ham Lincoln in Dakota May 17; a third under General Gibbon, consisting of four companies of cavalry and six companies of infantry (in all 450 men), was to march from Fort Ellis, in Montana, eastward and meet General Terry on the Yellowstone ri\-er June 21.
Gibbon was under the command of Terry, but Crook and Terry were independent of each other. Knowing that Sitting Bull was soudi of the Yellowstone, General Sheridan's object was to have the three forces each coming in a different direction, surround Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, thus to prevent their escape.
According to orders General Custer moved westward to the Little Missouri river. He divided his command into three columns, the right wing CDmmanded by Major Marcus Reno' the left by Captain T. \V. Benteen, and Custer himself having charge of the center column. On the 30th of May, Custer was sent with four troops to scout up the Little Jvlissouri for a dis- tance of twenty miles and to return the same day. He did not find any sign of the Indians. From the Little Missouri the command passed over to the Powder river. Here Terry left Cus- ter and went to the Yellowstone to communi- cate with the supply steamer, and thence up the Yellowstone to communicate with General Gib- bon. L^pon returning he ordered Reno to scout up the Powder river, taking with him, twelve days' rations. If he found no sign of the In- dians he was to cross over to the Tongue river, scout up that stream and return and join the regiment at the mouth of Tongue river by the time his supplies were exhausted. Custer marched across country to the mouth of the Tongue river, remaining there until the 19th of June, awaiting news from Reno. On the 19th of June Reno arrived and reported having found a trail that led up the Rosebud river. They first discovered the trail on the Tongue river, followed it over to the Rosebud, and up this stream for forty miles.
In the meantime General Crook had marched north and met Crazy Horse and was badly defeated on the 17th of June. Neithei officer knew of the nearness of the other al- thouigh they were less than 'forty miles apart when Reno returned.
Gibbon, Terry and Custer held a conference* and it was decided that Custer should follow the trail reported by Reno. On the morning of the 23rd Custer with his command, consist- ing of twelve companies of the seventh cavalry, moved across to the Rosebud and up that stream to follow the trail reported by Reno. After Reno's report Terry concluded that the Indians must be camped somewhere in the valley of the Little Big Horn, and by sending the two forces, one under Custer to attack from the south, one under Gibbon to attack from the north, that if they were in the Little Big Horn valley, there would be no possible chance of escape. During the 23rd and 24th several traces of the Indians were discovered on the Rosebud river. The scouts located the trail of the Indians over the hill on the afternoon of the 24th, so Custer decided to march to the top of the hill that night that he might be able to lo- cate the village in the morning if the hostiles should be camped in the valley beyond. Dur- ing the early morning the scouts brought tid- ings that the village was about twelve miles distant in the valley. During the middle of the day they marched to the divide. The ad- vance column under Major- Reno consisted of troop "M," Capt. French; troop "H," Capt. Maylan and Lieut. DeRudio; troop "G," Lieuts. Mclntosli and Wallace; Indian scouts under A'arnum and Hara, and interpreter Gir- ard ; Lieut. Hodgson acting adjutant, and Doc- tors DeWolf and Porter, medical officers. Custer's battalion was composed of troop "I," Captain Keough and Lieutenant Porter; troop "F," Captain Yates and Lieutenant Reily; troop "C," Captain Custer and Lieutenant Harrington ; troop "E." Lieutenants Smith and Sturgis; troop "L," Lieutenants Calhoun and
24
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
Crittendon; Lieutenant Cook adjutant and Dr. Lord medical officer. Captain Benteen's col- umn consisted of troop "H," Captain Benteen and Lieutenant Gibson ; troop "D," Captain Weir and Lieutenant Edgerly; troop "K," Lieutenant Godfrey. The pack train was un- der the escort of troop "D," Captain Mc- Dougall, and managed by Lieutenant Mathey. After ha\'ing reached the divide, Benteen's force was ordered to a line of high, ragged bluffs to the south and west with instructions to send a messenger to Custer immediately if he came in sight of the Indians. Reno's battal- ion marched down a small valley towards the river. Custer's command followed Reno's for a few miles, then turned north. Reno con- tinued on down to the valley, crossed the river to the west side, finding but little resistance until his troop had almost reached the village. At this point the Indian warriors seemed t) spring from all directions and Reno was forced to retreat. His efforts to recross at the same ford were made impossible by a band of the Indians who circled to the south of him, so he marched a little to the south of where he had ad\anced and made the ford some distance down the river from where he first crossed. A messenger sent to carry the news to Custer found his way cut off and returned to his com- pany. After having gained the east side of the river he was joined by Benteen and Mc- Dougall. The Indians pursued him to this side of the river and beseiged him until nine o'clock that evening; then quietly withdrew. Not having heard from Custer the general opinion was that he must have been driven across the hills or down the river. No assist- ance could be expected from this source and with a fear of an early attack in the morning the night was spent in digging gun pits and building breastworks as best they could for protection. Just at break of day June 26th, the attack was renewed and with more vigor than the day previous. The entire band was now gathered around the command and heavy
firing was kept up all through the day until the middle of the afternoon. Reno's command had the advantage of position, being located be- tween the bluffs and having rifle pits to fire from. Having the superior advantage their loss was not very heavy, although surrounded by the entire hostile band.
Between two and three o'clock in the after- noon the grass was set on fire by the Indians and smoke filled the air to such an extent that it was impossible to see the village or the move- ments made by the Indians. However, just about dusk they were seen crossing over the hills in the direction of the Big Horn river. The grass was set on fire to cover up their mo\-ements that Reno would not know in which direction they were retreating. Their scouts had reported the coming of Terry and his com- mand which were only a few miles distant down the river. Had they stood their ground they would have been subjected to a cross fire, Terrv' from the north and Reno from the south. Terry's force would have arrived in the morning. The Indians, knowing this, thought best to make good their escape before his arrival.
On the 26th the Crow scouts brought tid- ings to Terry that Custer's command had met the Indians and were all killed. Immediately he advanced up the river and found that all the command were dead upon the field. Word was then carried to Reno's line, the first in- formation they had of the disastrous defeat.
Nearly all the bodies were stripped of their clothes, and nearly all scalped and mutilated. A notable exception was the body of Custer which had been left on the field as it fell. He was shot in two places, one taking effect in his side, the other passing through his temple.
As there was not a survivor of the battle no definite report could be made, and the only in- formation attainable, as has been heretofore mentioned, was that gathered from the field after the defeat and the description given by the Indians who were engaged in the battle.
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
25
From these sources Lieutenant E. S. Godfrey has written an extended article wliich is tlie best infomiation attainable. From this article we quote the following description :
Keogh and Calhoun's troops were dismounted to fight on foot. These two troops advanced at double time to a knoll. The other three troops, mounted, followed them a short distance in the rear. The led horses remained where the troops dismounted. When Keog-h and Calhoun got to the knoll the other troops marched rapidly to the right ; Smith's troops deployed as skirmishers, mounted, and took position on a ridge, which on Smith's left ended in Keogh's position and on Smith's right ended at the hill on which Custer took position with Yates and Tom Custer'.s troop, now known as Custer hill, and marked by the monument erected to the command. Smith's skirmishers holding their gray horses remained in groups of fours. The line 'occupied by Custer's battalion was the first con- siderable bluff back from the river, the nearest point being about half a mile from it. His front was ex- tended about three-fourths of a mile. The whole vil- lage was in full view. A few hundred yards from his line was another but lower ridge, the further slope of which was not commanded by his line. It was here that the Indians under Crazy Horse, from the lower part of the village, among whom were Cheyennes, formed for the charge on Custer's hill. All the In- dians had now left Reno! Gall collected his warriors and moved up a ravine south of Keogh and Calhoun. As they were turning this flank they discovered the led horses without any other guard than the horse holders. They opened fire upon the horse holders, and used the usual devices to stampede the horses — that is, yelling waving blankets, etc. : in this they succeeded very soon, and the horses were caught up by the squaws. In this disaster Keogh and Calhoun probably lost their reserve ammunition, which was carried in the saddle bags. Gall's warriors now moved to the foot of the knoll held by Calhoun. A large force dismounted and ad- vanced up the slope far enougih to be able to see the soldiers when standing erect, but were protected when squatting or lying down. By jumping up and firing quickly, they exposed themselves for only an instant, but drew the fire of the soldiers, causing a waste of ammunition. In the meantime Gall was massing his mounted warriors under the protection of the slope. When everything was in readiness, the dismounted warriors arose, fired, and every Indian gave voice to the war-whoop; the mounted Indians put whip to their ponies and the whole mass rushed upon and crushed Calhoun. The maddened mass of Indians was carried forward by its own momentum over Calhoun and Crittendon down into the depression where Keogh was, with over thirty men, and all was over on that part of 'he field.
In the meantime the same tactics were being pur-
sued and executed around Custer hill. The warriors under the leadership of Crow-King, Crazy Horse, White Bull, Hum^p, and others, moved up the ravine west of Custer hill, and concentrated under the shelter of the ridge on the right flank and back of his posi- tion. Gall's bloody work was finished before the anni- hilation of Custer was accomplished, and his victorious warriors hurried forward to the hot encounter then go- ing on, and the frightful massacre was completed.
Smith's men had disappeared from the ridge, but not without leaving enough dead bodies to mark their line. About 28 bodies of men belonging to the troops and other organizations were found in one ravine near the river. Many corpses were found scattered over the field between Custer's line of defense, the river, and the direction of Reno's hill. These, doubtless, were of men who had attempted to escape ; some of them may have been sent as couriers by Custer. One of the first bodies I recognized and one of the nearest to the ford was that of Sergeant Butler, of Tom Custer's troop. Sergeant Butler was a soldier of many years' experience and of known courage. The indications were that he had lost his life dearly for near and under him were found many empty cartridge shells.
All the Indian accounts that I know of, agree that there was no organized close-quarters fighting, except on the two flanks ; that with the annihilation at Cus- ter's hill the battle was virtually over. It does not appear that the Indians made any advance to the at- tack from the direction of the river ; they did have a definite force along the river, and in the ravines which destroyed those who left Custer's line.
Two Moon, a chief of the Cheyennes, in de- scribing the battle, states that they surrounded Custer from all sides and kept "swirling and swirling around the soldiers." "Once in a while," he says, "a soldier would break out and run toward the river, but never would reach it. At last about a hundred men and five horsemen stood on the hill and bunched to- gether. All along the bugler kept blowing his commands * * *. Then a chief was killed. I heard it was Long Hair (Custer), and then the five horsemen and the bunch of men. maybe some forty, started toward the river. All the soldiers were killed and stripped." He states that they counted the dead and they numbered 388. and that 39 Sioux and 7 Cheyennes were killed and about 100 wounded. From the best authority we are acquainted with Custer's abil- itv. He had served in the war of the rebellion
26
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
with destinction and honor, and had taken part in many engagements with the Indians. No one who is at all familiar with his career doubted his ability. General Terry had no ex- perience in Indian warfare. Then, would it not be natural that he should leave Custer to his own judgment as far as possible under the circumstances? The following written instruc- tions were given Custer on the 22nd :
Camp at Mouth of Rosebud River.
Montana Territory. Ju.\E, 22. 18/6.
Lieutenant-Colonel Custer, 7th Cavalry,
Colonel : — The Brigadier-General commanding di- rects that as soon as your regiment can be made ready for the march, you will proceed up the Rosebud in pur- suit of the Indians whose trail was discovered by Ma- jor Reno a few days since. It is, of course, impossible to give j'ou any definite instructions in regard to this movement, and were it not impossible to do so, the Department Commander places, too much confidence in your zeal, energy, and ability to wish to impose upon you precise orders which might hamper your action when nearly in contact with the enemy. He will, how- ever, indicate to you his own views of what your actions should be, and he desires that you should con- form to them unless you shall see sufficient reason for departing from them. He thinks that you should pro- ceed up the Rosebud until you ascertain definitely the direction in which the trail above spoken of leads. Should it be found to turn towards the Little Horn, he thinks that you should still proceed southward, per- haps, as far as the head waters of the Tongue, then turn towards the Little Horn, feeling, however, con- stantly to your left, so as to preclude the possibility of the escape of the Indians to the south or southeast by passing along your left flank. The column of Colonel Gibbon is now in motion for the mouth of the Big Horn. As soon as it reaches that point it will cross the Yellowstone and move up as far as least as the forks of the Little and Big Horns. Of course its fu- ture movements must be controlled by circumstances as they arise, but it is hoped that the Indians, if upon the Little Horn, may be so nearly encircled by the two columns that the escape will be impossible. The De- partment Commander desires that on your way up the Rosebud you should thoroughly examine the upper part of Tul lock's creek, and that you should endeavor to sent a scout through to Colonel Gibbon's column, with information of the results of your examination. The iower part of the creek will be examined by a detach- ment from Colonel Gibbon's command. Very respectfully.
Your obedient servant,
E. W. Smith, Captain iSth Infantry, .\cting Assistant Adjutant-Gen.
In accordance with Terry's instructions, as given above, Custer and Gibbon were to meet on the Little Big Horn on the 26th, the pre- sumption being that the Indians were camped in this valley, that they might make a joint attack and if possible surround and capture the hostiles. We also note on previous pages that Custer did not wait until the 26th, but on 25th made attack. Was he justified in making this early attack ? Some writers say he was ; others say he was not. Those who say he was, con- tend that the instructions were not binding, that it was not the intention of Terry that Custer shuld not be permitted to vary from the instructions if he thought best, and in proof of their contention they cite from the instructions given Custer the following sentences : "It is im- posible to give you definite instructions in re- gard to this movement. * * * The Department Commander places too much confidence in your zeal, energv' and ability to wish to impose upon you precise orders which might hamper your action when nearly in contact with the enemy." They further infer that these instruc- tions were not definite orders, but simply a guide, and that if Custer thought best after overtaking the enemy, he was to exercise his own judgment as to what he should do under the circumstances.
The other writers contend that the instruc- tions were definite orders and. that under no circumstances should he have varied from them. They contend that a request from a mil- itary officer is a command and that Custer should under no circumstances have varied from the written instructions.
One writer says, that "Custer might have been prompted to immediate action fearing that the enemy might abandon the village after learning the position of the soldiers, and thus, in order to prevent their abandoning the vil- lage made the attack on the day previous to the appointed time of the meeting of the two forces."
Had Custer ascertained the position of the
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
enemy, g"i\'ing orders for a simultaneous attack from the right (Custer), from the left (Ben- teen), and from the upper end of the village (Reno), the advantage would all have been in favor of the soldier. The Indians not know- ing the strength of the soldiers and being sub- jected to a cross fire from the three different columns, would no doubt have abandoned the village.
From information gathered from the chiefs who took part in the battle we must credit them with some very skillful moves. Their plan for surrounding Reno was tactful and had it been carried out Reno's forces would have been sur- rounded and met the same fate as Custer and his men.
Reno found but little interference until he reached iiearly the upper end of the village. In the meantime, the Indians had circled around him to the south with the expectation of preventing his return across the same ford by which he crossed to the west side, thus sur- rounding him. They did not know that there was a ford farther ni )rth where he could retreat to the east side of the river. Their plan to sur- round him having failed, and he having gained the east side, they now planned to surround his force before it could ascend to the high blufTs. In order to do this the force of Indians south of Reno crossed the same ford where Reno crossed to the west side, and another detach- ment of the warriors was sent across at a ford farther north. The Indians arrived just a few minutes too late to accomplish their designs, and Reno was well on his way up the bluff be- fore they arrived.
The number of warriors taking part in the battle has been variously estimated, military officers placing the number at about -^,500. General Sheridan estimates the number of hostile band at from 500 to 800. Major James McLaughlin, U. S. Indian Agent at Devils Lake, N. D., for many years, has made an esti- mate of the number engaged, in which he states that one-third of the Sioux Indians, in-
cluding the Cheyennes and Arapahoes, were present at the battle; that the entire band to- gether numbered about forty thousand, and that there must have been from twelve to fifteen thousand assembled in the valley at this time, one-fourth of which should be counted in estimating the number of warriors, which would make a fighting force of twenty-five hundred to three thousand men. Dr. Charles Alexander Eastman, a full blood Sioux, has made a very careful study of the number of warriors who were in the Little Big Horn at this time. He bases his estimate on the number of Indians in. the different agencies, the number absent from the agencies, and also upon infor- mation gathered from his own people who were of the hostile tribes at this time. Below we quote from an article published in the Chautau- qua Magazine in the year 1900 by Dr. East- man. He says :
The camp was in the following order from south to north down the river: Hunkpapaws, 224 tepees; Sans Arc, 85 tepees: Inkpadutas, 15 tepees; Brules, 140 tepees; Minneconjus, 190 tepees; Ogallallas, S40 tepees; Cheyennes, 55 tepees ; making a total of 949 tepees. If we allow five persons to the tepee, we 'have 4,945 In- dians, and counting one-quarter of this number -war- riors (which is allowing too large an estimate), there will be 1. 21 1 warriors. Suppose we add to this num- ber 200 warriors who may possibly have come from the various agencies in Dakota, the number of fighting men all told will be 1,411. This will bring it within the number that General Custer expected to meet. In fact, if we exclude the boys under 18 years of age, and the old men over 70 ( a numl)er of whom did not have sufficient weapons), the number of warriors would be about 800 or 900, and that was about the estimate General Sheridan made before the e.xpedition was sent out.
After the battle of the Little Big Horn the hostiles divided into two bands. Sitting Bull':" Indians remaining in the west. Crazy Horse's moving towards the east. In October Sitting Bull, having given up hopes of accomplishing anything during the winter, came to General Miles with propositions of peace. His terms of peace embodied the following clauses: He and his followers were to be left to roam and
28
HISTORY OF ^lONTANA.
hunt over unoccupied territory ; they were to Hve the free life of the Indian; they were not to be supplied with rations or annuities. General Miles sent them word that there was only one proposition — they must accept terms of peace and move to the agencies. Sitting Bull would not accept General Miles' terms so the hostilities con- tinued. Shortly after this Miles surprised the Indians, defeated them, and captured 400 of their lodges. Sitting Bull escaped to the north and was here joined by a few small bands. Early in December Lieutenant Baldwin at- tacked Sitting Bull, driving him across the Mis- souri. At this time Sitting Bull was reduced to 190 lodges. About the middle of the month Baldwin again surprised their camp, captured sixty horses and nearly all their food supplies. Having lost their food supplies, they were now in almost destitute circumstances.
Crazy Horse, learning of the reverses of Sitting Bull, of his defeat and of having lost his supplies, sent word to him to join his camp as he had plenty of men and provisions for the winter. General Miles, however, learned of this through his spies and kept a force between the two hostile bands, thus preventing them from uniting forces. Crazy Horse was camped on the Tongue river. On December 29th Miles started with 436 men and two cannons against Crazy Horse. The Indians, learning of his coming, abandoned their quarters. Miles fol- lowed in rapid pursuit, capturing one warrior and seven women and children. The captives were relatives of one of the Cheyenne chiefs. That evening desperate efforts were made to recover them, but not succeeding, the attempt was renewed in the morning by the full force of the warriors. They were defeated and suf- fered heavy loss. Communications were opened through the captives. On February first, Miles sent word to them that they mu;t surrender, and if they did not he would attack with renewed force. Their strength being much reduced, being unable to unite with Sit- |
ting Bull, and their supplies becoming scarce, they sent word to Miles that they would con- clude terms of surrender.
Three hundred Indians under Two Moon, Hump and other chiefs surrendered on April 22 ; two thousand under Crazy Horse surrend- ered at Red Cloud and Spotted Tail agencies in May.
Sitting Bull, finding it impossible to join forces with Crazy Horse, his force being greatly reduced, realized the uselessness of further resistance with the troops and fled into British Columbia. In British Columbia he was joined by Chief Gall. The only remaining hos- tiles now were a few of the Minneconjous, who broke off from Crazy Horse's band when he surrendered. They did not exceed in numbers fifty lodges. General Miles surprised and routed them on the Rosebud. They lost four- teen killed, all their supplies and 450 ponies. The remaining few scattered in different di- rections and finally surrendered to the various agencies.
In September, 1876, the Sioux concluded a treaty by which they surrendered the Black Hills and Powder river country. In lieu of this they were to receive rations from the gov- ernment until such time as they could become self-supporting.
Sitting Bull and his followers soon become tired of living under Canadian rule. Under this government they did not receive rations; the hunting was not the best, and they were kept under a strict watch. Protection was all that was assured them, and if they expected protection they were obliged to remain peace- able, not only in Canada, but also on this side of the line. Tiring of this method of living, small bands would leave, cross to this side and surrender to the agencies. After nearly all his followers had deserted him. Sitting Bull, realizing the uselessness of further resistance, surrendered to the authorities at the Standing Rock agency.
Sitting Bull, the acknowledged leader of
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
29
the Indians in the Custer figlit, met his death sixteen years later. After that fight he conduc- ted himself in a very peaceable manner until the summer of 1890, when the Indians at the agency were becoming imbued with the "Mes- siah Craze." F'ossessed of a personality re- markably striking, he had a powerful influence over his people, and in this craze they were easily influenced by the teachings of Sitting Bull, who now called himself the High Priest. He promised them that the white race would be exterminated, that the wiiite man's gun would be no longer a deadly weapon, but that the ball would drop from it harmlessly, that their ancestors would return to the earth, that their hunting grounds would again be re- stored, that the former wild life of the Indians would be enjoyed by all Indians in the future, and that, should any be killed in obeying this call of the Messiah, they would immediately join their ancestors, who at this time had been restored to some distant part of the country. Fearing the outcome of Sitting Bull's teachings, Major James McLaughlin, the Indian agent, notified the Indian department of Sitting Bull's conduct and asked what should be done under the circumstances. In response to the above message from Major ^McLaughlin the follow- ing telegram was sent to the commanding of- ficer at Fort Yates, the nearest fort to this agency :
The division commander has directed that you make it your special duty to receive the person of Sit- ting Bull. Call on the Indian agent to co-operate and render such assistance as will best promote the pur- pose in view. By command of General Ruger. (Signed) M. Barbek,
Ass't. Adjutant-General.
Troops were sent from the fort to the agency to quell any disturbance. In order that the Indians might not know of their coming, they kept well back of the hills from the village. At the same time a number of police, most of them Indians, were sent to Sitting Bull's cabin to arrest him. Early in the morning the police
enteretl the house and made the arrest. The chief accepted the arrest quietly, but his son, Crowfoot, commenced upbraiding him for go- ing with the police, upon which Sitting Bull became obstinate and refused to go. He was removed from the house, and no sooner were they outside that they were surrounded by the ghost dancers, frenzied with rage. Sitting Bull called on the Indians to release him. The po- lice kept the Indians driven back, and had it not been for Sitting Bull's appeal to them, there might not have been any trouble. But his fol- lower believing in his teachings, thought no harm could come to them by resisting and that they must obey the command of Sitting Bull, According they opened fire on the police, kill- ing- and wording several. Bull Head, an Indian policeman, was se\'erely wounded by the first fire. No sooner was he wounded than he shot Sitting Bull. The fight now became general. The police gained the house and sta- ble from which they fired, driving the ghost dancers to the timber. The troops, who were stationed some distance away, approached and opened fire on the Indians. Soon everything was quiet. Sitting Bull now being killed, the Indians, having no leader, returned to their homes and no further disturbance was created.
One of the most remarkable campaigns ever carried on by an Indian against United States troups was that of Joseph, in the Nez Perce war of 1877. For months that astute chieftain waged war — and all but a successful one — against a larger force of United States troops. The war started in Idaho and ended in ^Montana, Joseph having retreated several hundred miles, carrying with him all his tribe and 'belongings.
In speaking of the Upper and Lower Nez Perce we do not refer to distinction of tribe, but to destinction of land, of territory. The Lower Nez Perce, under the chieftainship of Joseph, were considered to own the country south and east of the Blue Mountains, and west of the Snake River south of Powder River, a
30
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
tributary of the Snake. The Upper Nez Perce were extended the privilege of hunting on this territory, but were not supposed to liave any control over it.
The treaty of 1855 set aside for these peo- ple a large reservation in western Idaho and eastern Oregon, and declared that, "no white man shall be permitted to reside on said reser- vation without permission of the tribe and the superintendent and agent." The Nez Perce were peaceable, and settlers came in and took up land in the valleys granted them by the treaty. Their policy was peace and confidence in the Great Father that he would see that their lands would not be taken away from them. The whites came in and took up land in nearly all the fertile valleys. What must be done? Another treaty was decided upon. In 1863 the chiefs were called together. The Upper Nez Perce accepted the present reservation of Lap- wai, in western Idaho, the Lower Nez Perce refusing to join in the treaty. A peculiar pro- cess of reasoning, the one adapted, by which the non-treaty Indians were to be removed to the Lapwai reservation. In the treaty of 1855 Joseph joined in the sale of part of their lands, thereby recognizing himself and his followers as part of the tribal organization, and now, the majority of the chiefs having joined in the sale, they sold Joseph's land with the land of the Upper Nez Perce.
Joseph died in 1871, and his son. Young Joseph, commonly known as Chief Joseph, be- came leader of the Lower Nez Perce. His dy- ing words were : "Always remember that your father never sold his country. A few years more and the white man will be all around you. They have their eyes on this land. My son; never forget my dying words. This country holds your father's body. Never sell the bones of your father and mother."
These were peaceable people; they were never known to shed white man's blood ; they refused aid to hostile tribes; they kept at peace with those who encroached upon their grounds ;
they cared for the horses of the Lewis and Clark expedition during the winter, and when they returned in the spring they refused to take pay; they called for missionaries; they raised great herds of cattle; they committed no crimes; they loved the land of their fathers, they loved the beautiful Wallowa Valley m northeastern Oregon, the valley of their homes ; but the government demanded their removal to the Lapwai reservation. They pleaded; they counseled, but all in vain. All their efforts to retain their native home having failed, they, true to their principles of peace, made ready to depart for the reservation, and on the date of departure, after everything had been packed and ready and the little band was on the way, trouble arose between a division of the band and the settlers in which several of the settlers were killed.
The commission that met from day to day to treat with the Indians found many objec- tions to meet. Joseph argued at length and met the various reasons advanced by the com- mission for their removal to the reservation. After all efforts on the part of the commission had failed Joseph was told that there was but one course to pursue, and that, that they must abandon the valley. They were given thirty days after May 14th to gather their stock to- gether and vacate the land. Joseph's advice to his people was to leave peaceably. They went out to the range to gather in their cattle and horses and found many of them missing. They could not be found. Learning this the hot headed among the Indians became desper- ate ; Joseph counselled peace, but was unable to overcome the infuriated warriors.
The thirty days passed; the soldiers had not come. The loss of their stock bore heavily on their minds, and then the Indians, hereto- fore unknown to have taken white man's blood, turned from their pathway of peace. On Salmon river an old hermit by the name of Divine was killed. This deed was committed on the I ^th of Tune, the day, according to the
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
command of the commission, on which the Indians were to remove to the Lapwai reserva- tion. On the 14th they kihed four more. Their savage nature which had been pacified these many years burst forth at the sight of human blood. Mounting the horses of their victims they hastily rode to Camas Prairie where the greater portion of the Indians were camped. Riding through the camp they displayed the spoils of their deeds, and called upon all who were present in the camp to assist, and at the same time asserting their determination to re- turn and kill the other settlers in that locality. Seventeen warriors joined them and eight more settlers lost their lives.
Chief Joseph was not in the camp at the time these deeds were being planned. His wife was sick and he had moved her to a tepee some distance away, that she would not be disturbed by noise and conversation of those who might be angered because they were forced to leave their homes.
Colonel Perry, who was stationed at Lap- wai, hurried down with ninety men. Ten set- tlers joined them, making in all one hundred men. In order to intercept the retreat of the Indians and prevent their crossing the river. Colonel Perry marched to the White Bird can- yon, and thence up it, reaching the head of the canyon by daylight of the 17th. They ex- pected to give the Indians a surprise, but Joseph had learned of their coming and was waiting for them. The attack was a signal failure, and 35 of the hundred men were killed. Joseph pursued them for 12 miles, then con- tinued his retreat. This was Joseph's first battle, and being a complete victory gave his men courage.
General Howard with a batallion of 400 men, was crossing over the country to en- counter the Indians. Not until the nth of July did he come in sight of Joseph. On the above date Joseph was camped on the Clear- water, and was waiting for Howard to come up. In number of fighting men Joseph was
outnumbered, and while slightly worsted in the battle which ensued, still he was able to effect a retreat and gain the Lolo Trail. While not a victory for Joseph, it could not be termed a defeat, for General Howard was not able to head him off, and he retreated to the Bitter Root. A-fter having reached the Bitter Root he retreated south up the valley and into the Big Hole river valley. He thought he was well in advance of the soldiers and camped in this valley to rest his men and their families.
Joseph had but one means of knowing of the approach of soldiers, the scouts who were sent out. Through this means he would not likely learn of an approaching enemy many hours in advance of its approach. He was not aware that there were any other soldiers with whom he must contend at this camping place other than the force of General Howard. But the telegraph wires had been working and Gen- eral Gibbon, who at this time was stationed at Helena, had crossed to Fort Missoula to in- tercept him. He, however, arrived too late to intercept the Indians, so pursued them up the valley, and on August 9th, just at break of day, made a furious charge and surprised them where they were camped in the valley of the Big Hole. The surprise was complete and the Indians lost many of their horses. They were driven from their position and General Gibbon thought he had made a successful surprise, but Joseph after having been driven from his position, rallied his warriors, and made a des- perate attack on the soldiers, defeating them and driving them back to a wooded countr}-. where they took refuge. The victory was com- plete. Gibbon's command being so crippled that it could not pursue the Indians. Gibbon was wounded in the engagement. Howard crossed the country and joined Gibbon here. The Ban- nack scouts scalped the dead Indians, a barbar- ous custom not resorted to by the Nez Perce during the entire retreat.
From the valley of the Big Hole Joseph crossed over the continental divide and camped
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
on Camas Prairie in Idaho. Howard's com- mand was one day behind and camped on the same prairie. Joseph was retreating towards Yellowstone park. In order to intercept him a detachment had been sent ahead under Lieu- tenant Bacon. The most accessible way to the Yellowstone National Park was through Thatcher's pass. This pass was to be guarded by Bacon. Howard knowing that it would be al- most impossible for Joseph to cross the moun- tains in any other place, thought by guarding this pass that the Indians would be held at bay until the main force would come up, and thus possibly force a surrender. But Joseph was not yet ready to cross the divide into the park. During the stillness of the night he returned over the same trail and made a night attack upon the troops. The attack was very suc- cessful and they captured the greater number of Howard's horses. Howard rallied his men, pursued the Indians, and was able to recapture part of the horses. Later in the evening the Indians made another successful attack, and so complete was the surprise that they captured nearly all the remaining horses of Howard's command. Joseph had accomplished all he de- sired and continued his retreat. There was no danger of pursuit now as the soldiers could not follow them until horses could be obtained from Virginia City. In Joseph's retreat through the pass he was not intercepted by Bacon, who had been sent to head him off. Bacon having lost the trail.
After reaching the park they passed down by Yellowstone lake, over the Yellowstone river, crossing Baronet's bridge, burning the bridge behind them ; thence to Clark's fork, and down it to the Yellowstone. By so doing they avoided Colonel Sturgiss, who had come over from Powder river with three hundred and fifty soldiers and some friendly Crows. On the 13th of October, Sturgiss overtook Joseph at the mouth of canyon creek. The Indians were divided into guards, one detachment remaining at the mouth of the canyon, the other taking
position some distance up the canyon. Here they were so completely surrounded that they lost four hundred ponies. From here they re- treated to the Musselshell river, crossed the river and marched in a northerly direction, striking the Missouri at Cow island on the 23rd.
Cow island was the limit of low water navi- gation on the upper Missouri, 125 miles below Fort Benton. There was a landing here but no settlement. The landing was guarded by twelve soldier and four citizens. The Indians attacked it but at night drew off. They burned all the freight at the landing. A detachment came down from Fort Benton and followed the Indians for a couple of days, but abandoned the pursuit after a skirmish in which they were defeated.
From Fort Keogh on the Yellowstone, Col- onel Miles was marching across the country with nine companies of mounted men, a com- pany and a half of infantry, a company of white and Indian scouts, a breech loading Hotchkiss gun and a twelve pound Napoleon. After reaching Cairo on the Missouri, below Cow island. Miles learned of the event at the latter place, and on the 25th three hundred and seventy-five men began the march to cut ofif the retreating Nez Perce.
In the meantime the Nez Perce had marched north and taken position in the Bear Paw mountains, camping on Smoke creek, a tributary of the Milk river. Joseph was now within fifty miles of the British line, and not knowing of the approach of Colonel Miles, he went in camp here, expecting after a day's rest to continue their retreat into the British Pos- sessions.
On the morning of the 30th, the camp was attacked, the Indians knowing nothing of the approach of Colonel Miles until within a few miles of where they were camped. The Indians took position in a ravine which led into the creek valley along the bluffs. They were com- pletely surrounded and 800 of their cattle cap-
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
33
tured. The fighting continued for four days and nights. The Indians were well located in the ravine but completely surrounded by the troops, making their escape almost impossible, Colonel Miles did not deem it wise to capture the camp by storm as it would necessitate the loss of a great many men. Having the Indians surrounded and damaging them with shell he felt sure that they must eventually surrener.
Sitting Bull was in Canada not many miles distance from the boundary. Besides Sitting Bull there were bands on various reservations which could be depended on by Joseph to render him assistance. Joseph says that he could have held out until such time as he could have gotten assistance from these bands. But during the four days he was being besieged he was negotiating with Miles. Several times during these days he sent messengers to Miles, asking upon what terms Miles would accept a surrender. After having received satisfactory terms upon which he was to surrender, Joseph says that, "on the fifth day (October 4th) I went to General Miles and gave him my gun, and said 'From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more; my people need rest; we want peace.' "
General Howard had arrived and was on the ground at the surrender. Joseph held out for five days against great odds. The troops were fresh; his people were worn and tired from many miles of travel. White Bird es- caped during the night with 105 warriors, and fled into Canada. Joseph contends that he, with the men, could have effected a retreat, had they left the wounded, the children and the old women, but he preferred to surrender rather than do this.
Chief Joseph upon his surrender left this very pathetic message for General Howard : "Tell General Howard I know his heart. What he told me before I ha\-e in my heart. I am tired of fighting. Our chiefs are killed. Look- ing Glass is dead. Too-hul-hul-sote is dead. The old men are all dead. It is the young men 3
who say yes or no. He who led on the young men is dead. It is cold and we have no blank- ets. The little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them, have run away to the hills and have no blankets, no food ; no one knows where they are, perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead. Hear me, my chiefs. I am tired ; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever."
The day of the surrender, under a flag of truce, Joseph was informed through General Miles that so far as he knew that he was to be returned to Lapwai reservation, (jcneral Miles' understanding was that this was the course to be pursued, and so' expressed himself to the Indian leader. This seemed to be an ab- solute guarantee to Joseph that he would be sent to the Idaho reservation.
The saddest page in all their history is the record showing the government's intention to establish them in the Indian territoi-y. They were accustomed to a northern climate, to the invigorating air of the mountains ; and when subjected tO' the warm southern country the little band rapidly decreased. Public clamor demanded their removal. The commissioner of Indian affairs reports that :
These Indians are in some respects superior to tliose of any other tribe connected with the agency. They are unusually bright and intelligent; nearly one- half of them are consistent members of the Presbyte- rian Church. They meet regularly for weekly services in the school house, and so far as dress, deportment, propriety of conduct are concerned, they could not be distinguished from an ordinary white congregation. The entire band, with probably one of two exceptions, are quiet, peaceable, and orderly people. They are ex- tremely anxious to return to their own country. They regard themselves as exiles. The climate does not seem to agree with them, many of them having died, and there is a tinge of melancholy in their bearing and conversation that is truly pathetic. I think they should be sent back, as it seems clear that they will never take root and prosper in this locality.
34
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
In 1895 there were 268 of Chief Joseph's band still hving, and it was decided to send them back into a colder climate, one better suited to their health and prosperity. One hundred and eighteen were brought to the Nez
Perce reservation in Idaho, the remainder, 1 50, to the Colville reservation in \\'ashingt(in. Among the latter was Chief Joseph. He died in September, 1904, and departed for the happy hunting grounds.
CHAPTER IV
THE FUR TRADERS.
The vast stretch of country between the Mississippi river and the Pacific coast, which had been truly a terra incognito before the ex- pedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804-6, was not !cng to remain so. The knowledge of the coun- try which these intrepid explorers gained and disseminated throughout the country awak- ened an active interest in the Northwest. Trap- pers, adventurers and fortune hunters were not slow to penetrate the country about which the Lewis and Clark party told in such glowing words. The next period of Montana's history has to deal with the adventures of the hardy trappers and traders, who almost immediately after the return of the successful exploring party set out for the upper Missouri.
Manuel Lisa, quick to grasp the informa- tion gained from the Lewis and Clark expedi- tion, was the first to fit out a trading expeditioa for this far away country. In the spring of 1807 he left St. Louis for the upper Missouri, intending to establish trading posts with the Indians of that countyr. The Sioux, Aricaras and Mandans were visited, the latter two tribes showing signs of hostility ; but without serious resistance the expedition was privileged to con- tinue its course up the river.
It seems to have been the original intention of Lisa to establish a fort near the mouth of the Yellowstone, or at some convenient place farther up the Missouri, for the purpose of
trading with the Blackfeet. This he did not do, but after having reached the confluence of these rivers, he ascended the Yellowstone. The only assignable reason for this move is the in- formation Lisa received from John Colter, who had become a member of the party at the mouth of the Platte, concerning whose move- ments this history will treat later.
At the mouth of the Big Horn river a fort was established. This fort, or trading post, consisted of two buildings, one on the right bank of the Big Horn and the other on the right bank of the Yellowstone, directly opposite the mouth of the Big Horn ri\er. This fort has been known by different names — Fort Lisa, Fort ^Manuel and IManuel's Fort. These two buildings erected by Manuel Lisa enjoy the dis- tinction of being the first buildings erected within the limits of the state of Montana. No trace of the old fort now remains.
We have noted above that Lisa diverged from his original plan of building the fort at the mouth of the Yellowstone. The Crows and Blackfeet were deadly enemies, and the estal> lishment of a trading post in the country of the Crows would be sufficient cause for the Blackfeet to consider the traders in league with their old-time enemy and to arouse their jeal- ousy. Whatever the future results of this move may have been can not be estimated, but the immediate outcome was an unfriendly re-
1T8G790
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
35
lationship with tlie Blackfeet. Trade was opened with the Crows and many valuable furs secured. Lisa and his party spent the winter of 1807-8 at the post, and the next spring returned to St. Louis, elated with success.
\\'hile ALanuel Lisa had been the first to organize an expedition to penetrate the upper Missouri country, there was one who was a year ahead of that bold trapper in exploring portions of the Montana country. This one was John Cclter, who was a private soldier with Lewis and Clark during the memorable expedition of 1804-6. When that party ar- rived at Mandan on the homeward journey in 1806 Colter asked to be granted a discharge that he might remain in the upper country to trap and hunt, and his request was granted. We ha\-e nothing definite as to where he passed the winter of 1806-7, but most writers credit him with having visited the Yellowstone river country and having passed the winter there.
The next spring he set out for St. Louis in a small canoe. He descended the Missouri as far as Platte, where he met the party under Manuel Lisa on its way up the river. Colter was prevailed upon to join the expedition and thenceforth became one of Lisa's most active workers. Lisa, of course, was not acquainted with the country and he knew that Colter would be of great value to him. However important an event the acquisition of Colter to the party was, we find no mention of him in the journal of the expedition from the point where he joined the party until the confluence of the Yellowstone and the Big Horn rivers was reached.
The party having reached the Big Horn, Colter was dispatched to notify all the Indians in the surrounding counti-y that a trading post had been established at the mouth of the Big Horn river. This brave explorer at once set out on his perilous mission. Loaded down with a pack of thirty pounds weight, besides carrving his gun and ammunition. Colter made
a trip upwards of fi\'e hundred miles alone and on foot through an unknown and trackless country, notified the Crows of the establishment of the post and then endeavored to carry the news farther into the interior. The Crows were supposed to be somewhere on the Big Horn river, but it seems that they were at this time camped on the Wind river. Proceeding westward from here, accompanied by a num- ber of Crow guides, he advanced to Pierre Hole, where he and his guides were attacked by a party of Blackfeet. The attacking party waS' repulsed, but Colter was wounded in the leg. The Crow guides then left him and re- turned to their camps, leaving Colter entirely alone. Without guides or escorts of any kind this bra\'e man then worked his way back to the establishment, several hundred miles. Hav- ing had a skirmish with the Blackfeet he be- lieved it would be folly to go on the three forks of the Missouri to inform the Blackfee; of the establishment of the post. He crossed from Pierre Hole in a northeasterly direction to wdiat is now the Yellowstone National park, thence in an almost northeasterly direction through it to the Yellowstone river, which stream he followed to where it bends to the northwest. Here he took an east branch, fol-' lowed its course a few miles, then advanced in a northeasterly course to Lisa's fort.
The winter was spent at and near the fort. When spring opened Colter, accompanied by one Potts, was again sent out with instructions to meet the Blackfeet at the three forks. Ar- riving there they found no Indians, and so en- gaged in trapping until such time as the In- dians should put in an appearance. The story of the adventures of these two men on this trip reads like a romance. We leave its telling to the able pen of Washington Irving :
They were on a branch of the Missouri called Jef- ferson's Fork, and had set their traps at night about si-x miles up a small river that einptied into the fork. Early in the morning they ascended the river in a '^anoe to examine the traps. The banks of each side
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HISTORY OF MONTANA.
were high and perpendicular and cast a shade over the stream. As they were softly paddling along, they heard the tramping of many feet upon the banks. Colter im- mediately gave the alarm of "Indians!" and was for instant retreat. Potts scoffed at him for being scared at the trample of buffaloes. Colter checked his un- easiness and paddled forward. They had not gone much further wihen frightful whoops and yells burst forth from each side of the river and several hundred Indians appeared on either bank.
Signs were made to the unfortunate trappers to come on shore. They were obliged to comply. Before they could get out of their canoes a savage siezed the rifle belonging to Potts. Colter sprang on shore, wrested the weapon from the hands of the savage, and restored it to his companion, who was still in the canoe, and immediately pushed into the stream. There was a sharp twang of a bow and Potts cried out that he was wounded. Colter urged him to come on shore and submit as his only chance for life ; but the other knew there was no prospect of mercy and determined to die game. Leveling his rifle; he shot one of the savages dead on the spot. The next moment he fell himself, pierced with innumerable arrows.
The vengeance of the savages now turned upon Colter. He was stripped naked, and, having some knowledge of the Blackfeet language, overheard a con- versation as to the mode of dispatching him, so as to derive the greatest amount from his death. Some were for setting him up as a mark and having a trial of skill at his expense. The chief, however, was for nobler sport. He seized Colter by the shoulder and demanded if he could run fast. The unfortunate trapper was too well acquainted with Indian customs not to comprehend the drift of the question. He knew he was to run for his life, to furnish a kind of human hunt to his perse- cutors. Though in reality he was noted among his brother hunters for swiftness of foot, he assured the chief that he was a very bad runner. His strategem gained him some vantage ground. He was led by the chief into the prairie, about four hundred yards from the main body of savages, and then turned loose to save himself if he could. A tremendous yell let him